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Nk'Mip Centre Shimmers in Desert
Osoyoos Band offers new way to imagine 'breathtaking' buildings amidst the financial crash.
Award-winning Nk'Mip Desert Cultural Centre, designed by Hotson Bakker Boniface Haden. Photo by Nic Lehoux.
Focus on BC Architecture
- Arthur Erickson, the Brand
- The $18 Million Condo
- City Abandons Its Heritage Gems
- A City's Shapes to Come?
- Can 'Eco-Density' Be Beautiful?
- Nk'Mip Centre Shimmers in Desert
- Women Building Their Power Base in BC's Architecture World
- Uncool: Vancouver's Olympic Architecture
- Architecture of Hope Revisited
In post-meltdown North America, it won't be long now before the starchitecture phenomenon hits the economic slagheap. How many corporate benefactors will be left to bankroll such cultural braggadocio as Daniel Libeskind's giant crystal barnacle in Toronto, or Frank Gehry's Experience Music Project mishmash in Seattle?
The stark reality is that starchitecture is predicated on money and branding, neither of which are as reliable as we thought. So what kind of architecture can we turn to?
Far, far away from the turbulent urban centres, a First Nations cultural project is offering an architectural antidote for these times. In the heart of the Okanagan, the Nk'Mip Desert Cultural Centre near Osoyoos is the best of the recent spate of B.C.'s First Nations cultural buildings. Distinguished by its striking 80-metre-long rammed-earth façade, the Osoyoos Band's Desert Cultural Centre is a rare point of beauty amid the Okanagan's trashy new townscapes.
On Thursday, Oct. 16 the centre and its designers, Hotson Bakker Boniface Haden (HBBH), received a Governor-General's Medal for Architecture. It's notable that the other two B.C. projects nabbing a GG last week are similarly subdued: West Vancouver's Gleneagles Community Centre by Patkau Architects, and the ROAR one condominium project in Point Grey, by Lang Wilson Practice in Architecture Culture in partnership with HBBH. They all serve to remind us that architecture -- let's extend this to Canadian culture in general -- is not best represented by lavish, glittering, oversized baubles.
'We wanted something breathtaking'
But of this triumvirate of GG winners, the Desert Cultural Centre is the most groundbreaking. Beyond its visual distinction -- it really is more eye-stopping than any of the other winners -- it offers a new paradigm for the emerging field of aboriginal tourism. Instead of braying loudly in your face, the Desert Cultural Centre is literally submerged, partly, into the earth, with its green roof receding into the slope of the hillside that cradles it.
The rammed-earth wall is not a literal replication of erstwhile First Nations architecture. (Fans of that format can turn to Skidegate's new Haida Heritage Centre. The Desert Cultural Centre offers a more abstracted, forward-looking response.
"We wanted something breathtaking, but with very little footprint on the land," recalls Brenda Baptiste, an Osoyoos band member who grew up in the area and was the centre's general manager when the project was conceived. The centre transcends its immediate purpose as a repository for exhibits and didactic panels and souvenirs, and becomes, as Baptiste puts it, "our stage for the world."
These days, Baptiste lives in Vancouver where she serves as chair for the B.C. Aboriginal Cultural Tourism Association. She's acutely aware of the potential for growth in the First Nations tourism sector, from roughly $35 million last year to a projected $50 million in annual revenues anticipated for 2012. And of the 200 or so current aboriginal tourism businesses, more than half are in cultural tourism, according to the ABTC. "The Great Wall," as Baptiste laughingly refers to it, is the sort of First Nations architecture that embodies the best of the modern aboriginal spirit.
Mixing tradition with progressiveness
Cultural and interpretive centres are not money-makers; they're attractions that draw visitors in to spend money on souvenirs, wine and accommodation elsewhere in the area. The architecture, then, is all more critical in distilling and expressing the culture that visitors wish to brush up against. In the case of the entrepreneurially successful Osoyoos Band, the essential culture, honestly expressed, is a mixture of First Nations traditions and contemporary progressiveness. Hence its façade: the local dirt, mixed with modern concrete, and hand-tamped with iron-oxide pigment to create red-tinged striations that evoke the nearby sandbanks.
The centre is naturally ecological, too: the thick earthen wall keeps out the scalding Okanagan heat far better than most of the architecture in the region. Inside, at the Centre's core, is a small round theatre that plays films about the Osoyoos band's past and contemporary culture in an architectural format evocative of the band's traditional pit house. Could there be any better reflection of the Nk'Mip's fusion of traditional and contemporary mores?
"Our goal was to present the Osyoos band's long tenure on the land, and their future," says the project's principal architect, Bruce Haden. "To me, First Nations' culture so often gets ghettoized as historical. The Desert Cultural Centre is about the permanence of the Osoyoos culture -- and permanence is about the past, the present, and the future."
Okanagan as theme park
Weirdly, the iconic rammed-earth wall is barely shown on the Desert Cultural Centre's own website, whose imagery is dominated by shots of tourists savouring the desert. (The architecture is a springboard to the Centre's 1,600-acre desert conservation area behind it.
Sadly, the architecture surrounding the Centre does not come anywhere near to matching it in serenity or propriety: the adjacent Nk'Mip Cellars and Spirit Ridge Resort are designed more along the standard lines of the Okanagan Disney-kitsch, with little apparent connection to the subtle beauty of the Osyoos land and tradition. Those structures were designed by different architects, at a different time from Baptiste's mandate. To be sure, however much it pains to say it, they probably draw that certain sector of tourists that require architectural MSG with their First Nations experience.
And what is the prognosis for tourism in the post-meltdown age? Will it obliterate the future visitorship to the Nk'Mip Resort and Desert Cultural Centre? "For aboriginal tourism, it's an opportunity," says Baptiste, "because people are going to stay closer to home."
Related Tyee stories:
- Reconciling with First Nations: A Reader-funded Solutions Series
- Waiting for the EcoCultural Tourists
In Alert Bay, the fishing is dying and the future rides on aboriginal entrepreneurs wooing visitors. - Paths to Fame for Young Native Artists
Craft, culture and business skills all part of the picture.





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G West
3 years ago
Rammed earth
Not exactly 'ground breaking' news...
http://www.davidsuzuki.org/NatureChallenge/newsletters/RandyBachman.asp
Yammer
3 years ago
Great picture
On behalf of those of us who don't pretend to know everything, I did actually think this was interesting news. And yet more worthwhile publicity for what is perhaps the model Indian band.
G West
3 years ago
Oh I agree Yammer
The story was excellent - the point I was making, which you obviously missed, was a pun on the term ground-breaking AND a notice that rammed earth buildings have been around British Columbia for a while.
The single quotes should have given it away.
In fact, the practice goes back to pre-Christian times and, as such, is a perfect choice for the 'structure' this article celebrates.
Nice to see you commenting here again.
G West
3 years ago
And...put a mark on the wall - rammed earth or otherwise
Since I can't remember a single time I've ever agreed (even marginally) with Gordon Campbell about anything, I will take this opportunity to put on record that he is at least partially correct in his reaction to the remarks of IOC heavyweight and Vanoc Board Member Dick Pound about Canada's First Nations being 'savages' at any point in their pre-contact history.
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/LAC.20081022.BCOLYMPIC22/TPStory/TPNational/BritishColumbia/
He shouldn't have just called for Pound to apologize - he should have called, as Chief Philip Stewart has, for his immediate resignation.
David Ahenakew apologized (as Pound has done) for his own egregious mis-statements ...and that certainly has not 'been the end of it' for HIM.
This kind of double standard has had currency too long in this nation.
John Furlong's remarks are risible.
Campbell deserves at least some credit.
Luke Skywalker
3 years ago
Osoyoos Nk'Mip Development
Over the past few years, we have enjoyed the hospitality of Nk'Mip Cellars, the wine-tasting, and the adjoining outdoor restaurant patio with the beautiful view of Osoyoos Lake and the vineyard gracing down the hill.
Certainly a high-quality development.
Have also been impressed with the architectural design of the Nk'Mip Desert Cultural Centre, but never made it in... until a month ago during mid-September, finally taking the leap.
The exterior gave the illusion of a grand structure but the interior is relatively small... the theatre (with the live rattlesnake show) and the small exhibit area.
We thought that the individual price of $12.00 was a bit steep and we were inside for only ~5 - ~10 minutes. Hopefully, down the road, the exhibits will also reflect the grandness of the exterior. A work in progress, as they say.
The Osoyoos band also have excellent relations with the Town of Osoyoos and, for all intent and purposes, they are one integrated community.
Nevertheless, bravo Osoyoos Indian Band (part of the Okanagan First Nations)!
realisticman
3 years ago
NEWS
As the article clearly states, "of this triumvirate of GG winners, the Desert Cultural Centre is the most groundbreaking.".
Adele continues, "it offers a new paradigm for the emerging field of aboriginal tourism.".
"The Desert Cultural Centre offers a more abstracted, forward-looking response.", as opposed to, "a literal replication of erstwhile First Nations architecture." That's the news and it's re-iterated by the project's principal architect, Bruce Haden. "To me, First Nations' culture so often gets ghettoized as historical. The Desert Cultural Centre is about the permanence of the Osoyoos culture -- and permanence is about the past, the present, and the future."
snert
3 years ago
For being a knee jerker.
Yes.
OilbertaRedTory
3 years ago
The Savage Campbell
In my books, this premier has a LOT more ground to make up for the Referendum in 2002
http://www.cbc.ca/news/background/aboriginals/bc_treaty_referendum.html
So perhaps a Dr Pangloss can find the benefit of praising such a Baron who put to popular vote the rights of peoples already guaranteed since 1763.
Well then, let's toast the Campbell who has learned not to call out rude names in public.
"Any country where begging and mendacity are professions is ill-governed" Voltaire
G West
3 years ago
OilbertaRedTory - well put...
You are absolutely correct sir...I would not want my praise of Campbell to be seen as anything but fulsome...in the proper meaning of that word.
Having expended a good deal of bird shot on the man for the past several years - and anticipating another few months of doing the same - I judged a single instance of giving him credit for one more meretricious thing he's done in his public life would not be held against me.
As someone or other has put it: the exception proves the rule!
I think your reference to Candide is deliciously appropriate.
G West
3 years ago
And, I'll sadly mention one example
I'll sadly mention another example of the opposite point of view - and its many promoters - which has raised its ugly head in Canada's 'National' newspaper this morning.
As if Dick Pound weren't bad enough, the irrepressible Margaret Wente has rushed into the breach in his defence...
God, can we still be so ignorant?
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20081024.wcowent25/BNStory/specialComment/home
Cultural genocide continues apace.
Chief Bill Wilson was obviously correct.
ME2
3 years ago
GWest
Wente's column is "cultural genocide"????
ROFLOL, - And you're so SINCERE about it too !!!!! LOL LOL LOL
G West
3 years ago
What are you talking about ME2?
Did you read her column?
Do you know what caused the fuss?
Do you know who the 'character' she's used as her avatar is?
Her background, her education (or lack of it) and her history in Nunavut.
If you don't, I suggest you head back there and start reading - the website I mean - I'm not going to go into it here - this isn't the place.
G West
3 years ago
I will add
That I never suggested Wente was practicing cultural genocide - she's just consorting with someone who believes in it.
ME2
3 years ago
What I was talkin about.
Your comments were regarding that particular column of Wente's. Reading it literally without bringing old baggage into the interpretation of it, her comments easily withstand critical analysis.
Similarly, Dick Pound's comments were accurate too, and could not possibly be construed as racist or supportive of "cultural genocide" - except by the PC vigilantes.
Treat yourself to all the feel-good PC nonsense you want, Garth. Just don't expect to bully ALL of us with it.
G West
3 years ago
The comments were not about anything
The reference, as you well know, was to the attitude of the avatar Wente picked to support her false argument that there was nothing wrong with Dick Pound and his prejudices about Aboriginals as 'savages';
I don't care how you read it - it was as offensive as Pound's own roundly condemned remarks were.
There is nothing feel good or PC about that - it was, pure and simple, racist prejudice of the most offensive kind.
I'm not bullying anyone - people are free to go to the website, read the column and the comments and decide for themselves. My remarks were, as you can see, in response to another poster's thoughts about people who take a Panglossian attitude toward our own place and time - and in particular in reference to the Campbell/Plant referendum on Natives' treaty rights....and how that connected, in a circular fashion, to Campbell’s hypocritical decision to condemn Pound so unreservedly. You're a clever enough fellow, if you go back to the beginning of the comments thread you'll be able to follow the narrative.
Surely you realize by now that's my approach to these things... the underlying narrative that is. I had my reasons for giving Campbell more credit than he deserved…but Oilberta RedTory was quite correct in pointing out the inconsistency in my thinking in his/her post entitled The Savage Campbell.
I believe that the attitude some Canadians have toward native peoples in this country amounts to cultural genocide. Just as I think what we've visited on them as Europeans since 1492 has been a holocaust of unimaginable proportions. But of course you know all this – consequently, why bother to bring it up unless you’re looking for a fight – which I’m not.
Others can, and will, believe what they like. I just want as many people as possible to read the words and think about them for themselves – it’s called communication and, occasionally – persuasion/
As for bullying, I don't think so ME2 - I try very hard to address ideas and opinions and I try equally hard to stay away from that kind of thing.
ME2
3 years ago
What the comments were about.
That's all very nice, Garth, but the fact is that Pound's comment about pre-contact FNs being "savages" was completely true, as anyone who has studied anthopology well knows. Nor was his remark uttered in a context designed - even remotely - to disparage FNs in general, and certainly not living ones.
And wasn't it YOUR avatar, Bill Wilson, who described the Spaniards who arrived at Friendly Harbour as "disesase-ridden, pockmarked savages"? The comment was widely reported, but nobody nailed HIM for that racist comment.
The reason for not doing so is obvious, since by today's standards many practices of the Europeans were indeed savage. But does that then excuse the savage practices of FNs of the time?
Of course not. But instead of engaging in an unresolvable debate over whose ancestors were the "most savage", we've devised the notion of Culural Relativity, in which no judgement of a culture of a people can be made without compensating for the times in which they lived.
For example, EVERYONE at that time thought war was a normal condition for humanity, and that slavery for some of us was preordained. So can we ascribe willful wrongdoing to everyone who was alive then? Of course not.
But we CAN do so to those who today opt for those practices, since we - and they - understand clearly why they are wrong.
And so it is with racism, an age-old curse for mankind. But this not accomplished by people who wallow in feelgood guilt, who deliberately disallow Cultural Relativity for our European forebears while promoting it - indeed rewriting history in its name - for FN peoples.
And what is worse, and why I have such contempt for those who practice this kind of Political Correctness, is their denial of every honest attempt by the "Dominant Culture" to solve the incredibly tangled problems faced by FNs. For that we are accused of racist "Cultural Genocide".
That's pure sleaze artistry, designed only for confrontation, and deserves nothing better than outright counterattack.
G West
3 years ago
ME2
Did you actually go to the website and read the story and the comments?
If you really want to defend Margaret Wente and Dick Pound and Frances Widdowson and Tom Flanagan then that's the place to do it.
Register and fly at it.
My feelings, which you already know, and which are diametrically and empirically opposed to yours, are posted prominently (under my name) at the Globe's website.
I'm not going to repeat them here or to respond to your accusations which are, from my point of view, pretty much the same old stuff.
So lay on Macduff - I've already had my innings.
ME2
3 years ago
My last at bat too on this one
Yes, Garth, I had read Wente's article (as you well knew from my comments) and tonight for the third time. Wente has adequately covered most areas of contention re this issue.
Re the comments section, I find myself in full agreement with the Commenter copied below, and have capitalized his two most relevant observations. I note that by far the bulk of the comments either support Wente or trail off into PC irrelevancies.
The posting time is included for anyone who wishes to verify.
#Posted 24/10/08 at 11:50 PM EDT
"David Gibson from Hamilton, Canada writes: And yes, their society was more egalitarian, except that they wiped out the Neutrals, made them extinct as passenger pigeons. Meeting the Europeans, that was Stone Age vs. Early Industrial Revolution, quite a gap there. WENTE HAS WRITTEN THE MOST RELEVANT thing written on the subject, for some time. How poisonous, that OUR SCIENCES NOW ARE FILTERED THROUGH A POLITICAL SCREEN before our brains are fed the Allowed Thoughts."
Yes the political screen never misses a thing - as you demonstrate in your own comment, Garth.
Posted 25/10/08 at 6:58 PM EDT |(and exerpted)
"That civil servant was Frances Widdowson, who, long before she became Ms Wente's 'expert' of record further said that (traditional knowledge) ...`can be used to justify any enterprise, including the over-exploitation of resources'' ...simply because it can be anything native elders say it is"
For advancing her unwanted opinion, she was relieved of her post as a contracted advisor to the Government of Nunavut (whose policy requires traditional knowledge to be incorporated into decision-making).
Now it seems to me that if I were gov't, I'd want expert opinion on what policy should be and why, even if it offends what I'd LIKE to do. This would definitely apply to something as vague as "traditional knowlege">
But yes, gov'ts reject unwanted advice / advisors all the time (though I strongly suspect Campbell employs a few contrarians while developing his clever wedge policies)
My point here though Garth, is that you are unable to see the logic in Widdowson's observation, even though Wente touches on it, and even while there are plenty enough examples of it unfolding before your blinkered (?) eyes today. Want some examples?
G West
3 years ago
I see you didn't bother bringing over
I see you didn't bother bringing over any of the posts about Ms Wente's avatar - Frances Widdowson and her 'background' as a political scientist in what was a debate about the relative value of 15th and 16th century culture and anthropology - not to mention her connections to Harper ally Tom Flanagan.
I'm surprised at you...Ms Widdowson hasn't even got an oar in the debate about what Pound said.
I think you know that.
Whatever logic her views may hold relative to the current governance models, she is completely unqualified to make the claims she does - and I think you know that too.
Avoiding the 'real' question doesn't get us anywhere.
G West
3 years ago
I'd also point out that you've misconstrued my intent
My suggestion was, and I thought I'd made it clearly enough, that you take your arguments (in neat 2000 character bundles) over to the Globe's website and enter them there.
This thread is a celebration of Natives achievements - I don't think the discussion you're trying to drag me into belongs here.
Furthermore, as I already pointed out, I've written all I want to at Wente's place.
If you want, you can head to the Times-Colonist to read Iain Hunter's caustic appreciation of European culture.
http://www.canada.com/victoriatimescolonist/news/comment/story.html?id=8c1953ff-3b33-4415-8ea4-b2bfc8242cb0&p=2
He seems pretty well tuned to my wavelength too.
G West
3 years ago
I will add, for those who are interested
I will add a link to the article Iain Hunter mentions in his column, by Charles C. Mann, originally printed in the Atlantic:
http://cogweb.ucla.edu/Chumash/Population.html
ME2
3 years ago
GWest
You write:
"This thread is a celebration of Natives achievements - I don't think the discussion you're trying to drag me into belongs here."
But it was YOU, Mr West, who brought the Pound issue into it 5 days ago - Everybody else but you was quite willing to leave well enough alone, so two days later you had to bring it up AGAIN, and so I called you on it.
And you also write
"I'm surprised at you...Ms Widdowson hasn't even got an oar in the debate about what Pound said. I think you know that."
That one doesn't work either. I hadn't the faintest idea who Widdowson was until you focussed in on her. In fact, the whole 337 words in your G&M posting deal only with your jaundiced opinion re her credibility.
you would do well to take a course in logic. Or maybe it's memory enhancement pills you need?
G West
3 years ago
Nope, not guilty
And you didn't read all my posting(s) at the G&M either - there were several.
As for logic, it has nothing to do with it. If you'd read Wente's article you'd know exactly who Frances Widdowson is and why her unscientific claims and views are at the heart of the Wente misstatements and her facile defence of Dick Pound.
Perhaps you should go back and try again.
Furthermore, as I explained above in the clearest possible way, my second remark was in response to Oilbertan RedTory's quite reasonable observation that Campbell has a bit more to answer for before being hailed as a savior of the First Nations of British Columbia and Canada.
If you can't sustain the argument that pre-contact natives in the Americas were 'SAVAGES' any better than that maybe you shouldn't post anything further at the Globe site.
Let me know when you get straightened out.
G West
3 years ago
And, since you've posted a couple bits from there
I think I may be forgiven for cutting and pasting the following, I think it sums things up rather nicely:
Ryan Ginger from Canada writes: Ms. Wente betrays her breathtaking ignorance about Native culture--contemporary, historical, or archaeological--in this groundless and truly offensive article. And where is her basic journalistic skills? She takes her ethnohistorical snapshot from a book written by two ex-bureaucrats-cum-academics, Frances Widdowson and Albert Howard, neither of whom possess training in Native history or Native ethnology.
Being that it purports to be a reputable newspaper, I suggest that the Globe and Mail editors put Ms. Wente on a shorter leash, or do us all a favour and send her back to the steno pool where she belongs.
(And no, I didn't write it although I wish I had)
ME2
3 years ago
GWest
Trying to force you into dealing with one point at a time is like trying to nail jelly to a tree.
I think I've exposed your tactics well enough now for others to see how you use them.
I cede the field to you.
G West
3 years ago
Thanks
But please, ME2, next time, before you put fingers to keyboard, actually read the material you're supposed to be talking about.
What did you finally think of Ms Widdowson and her political science 'research'?
No tactics, just knowledge and informed opinion, and a willingness to cut through cant whenever and wherever I see it.
And I'm more than happy to stand on my record - here and elsewhere; proud of it, in fact.