Life

A Tyee Series

The Mordor Diaries: Among the Oil Sands Tourists

In which our reporter pays $36.75 for a Suncor bus tour of the vast pits, and peruses the gift shop. Last in a series.

By Geoff Dembicki, 26 Aug 2010, TheTyee.ca

TarSandsMordor

Suncor's Millenium Oil Sands Mine east of the Athabasca River. Photo: David Dodge, Pembina Institute

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I'd never imagined that Alberta's oil sands could be a tourist attraction. But here I am, a 20-minute drive north of Fort McMurray, filing out of a chartered bus behind 20 or so vacationers. We're parked beside a gray complex at the edge of Suncor's Millennium Mine. From an airplane you'd see desolate black fields and dusty roads -- the kind of panoramas that inspire monikers like "most destructive project on Earth." There's hardly any view from the ground. Workers in jumpsuits light cigarettes to our left. And a blackish ridge runs north to south behind them.

The reason for our stop -- first on a sight-seeing tour called "Experience the Energy" -- is the chance to photograph a mounted tire. It's not just any old tire. This one stands four metres tall and comes from a Caterpillar 797B Heavy Hauler. These so-called "world's biggest dump-trucks" can move 400 tonnes of black soil mixed with heavy petroleum. They're a common sight north of Fort McMurray, where open-pit mines sprawl to the horizon. Almost everyone wants a picture. Greying men in khaki shorts pose for the camera while smiling wives giggle nearby.

Far in the distance, I see two heavy haulers rumbling down the ridge. The clouds above are shaped like countries. "Okay, time to get back on the bus," announces Kailyn Park, our tour guide. I take a seat near the rear and rub my arms. The air conditioning is giving me goose bumps.

The sweet life

The evening before, I eat rhubarb crumble in suburban Fort McMurray. I'm sitting on white deck chairs with a middle-aged married couple who work for Syncrude, one of the biggest producers in the oil sands. They're flipping through the latest issue of "Synergy." The company newsletter has just profiled an attractive employee. "I wouldn't mind having her set down next to my office," the husband jokes. "I didn't hear that," his wife replies.

I scrape the last rhubarb from my bowl and watch the family cat stalk birds in their backyard. Some evenings the couple goes for long bike rides. Tonight is more relaxed -- just bottled water, rhubarb and the newspaper. A lawnmower roars faintly in the distance. You'd never know this backyard scene is intimately connected to the biggest energy project in North America. The wife teaches corporate leadership skills for Syncrude, while her husband, an oil sands geologist, commutes early each morning to an open-pit mine north of town. Bitumen pays well. They're renovating the house, and got back not too long ago from a trip to the Canary Islands. Like many in Fort McMurray, the couple isn't oblivious to the huge ecological impacts of extracting energy from the oil sands. But they tend to focus on "opportunities" and "progress" instead of oil-drenched ducks.

Out on the deck, the evening air starts to cool. We move inside. The husband hunches over a game of computer solitaire for the next 35 minutes. Everyone's asleep by 10:30 p.m.

'Quest for Energy'

The next morning, I show up 45 minutes early for my oil-patch bus tour. I'm the only tourist in the front lobby of the Oil Sands Discovery Centre. Picture a gray building at the edge of an industrial park and just down the road from a Ford Lincoln dealership. The centre is considered one of Fort McMurray's top tourist attractions. A chipper receptionist suggests visiting the theatre, where a screening of "Quest for Energy" is about to begin. I get distracted by the "dig and sniff" station instead. Pull on a handle to drag a metal claw through oily sand, and then lift a panel that reads "sniff". It smells mostly like old tires.

Five Facts the Alberta Government Doesn't Have on Its Website

1) Total toxic mining waste from the oil sands: 170 square km. Or 1.5 times bigger than the city of Vancouver.

2) Estimated cost of cleaning up that waste (as calculated by Toronto-based Risk Metrics Group): $20 billion. Amount collected from industry by government for reclamation: $875 million.

3) Amount of forest likely to be destroyed if oil sands expansion continues at current rates: 1.6 million hectares. Or an area twenty times the size of Calgary.

4) Total daily output of sulfur dioxide and nitrogen oxide from the oil sands: 300 tonnes (each). Amount of Alberta forest soil now acidifying: 8.5 per cent.

5) By 2035, percentage of Canada's natural gas consumption that could be accounted for by the oil sands: 40.

— compiled by Andrew Nikiforuk

I decide to check out the gift shop. The shelves here are stocked with plastic construction hats, eating utensils shaped like forklifts and a children's toy called "Barrel-O-Slime." My favourite gift is the large print of an oil sands mine lit by the Northern Lights. Ghostly wolves hover above heavy haulers and other industrial machinery with sorrow in their eyes.

By this point, almost all the other bus passengers -- mostly older couples and a few children -- have gathered. The gift shop starts to get crowded. I go outside for some fresh air. The first thing I notice is the dozen or so bird silhouettes painted along the exterior wall. The colour choice, black, seems a bit odd -- especially with a recent guilty verdict against Syncrude for allowing 1,600 ducks to fly into a toxic tailings pond. But there’s little time to ponder. My motor-coach has just arrived.

Strap in for the ride

Suncor is the only company right now to offer an oil sands bus tour. It costs $36.75 with tax and you have to play by their rules. That means no voice or video recorders. And all photos are for personal use only -- you can't even publish them on Facebook. All this is relayed by Kailyn Park, our tour leader, in the peppiest of voice tones. "Everyone got that?"

Myself and another freelance writer are the only ones with notepads. Many of the riders are older couples from Ontario. As the bus exits north onto Highway 63, Kailyn regales us with local trivia -- stuff like mobile homes selling for $465,000 at the height of the oil boom. Not long past Fort McMurray limits, she puts on a slick video about Suncor's environmental progress.

Highway 63 is pretty dead in the late morning, but every so often a pickup truck roars past. Ongoing University of Alberta research is examining the 25,000 oil-patch labourers who live in work camps outside Fort McMurray. Some do just fine. But others are driven near insane by long hours, social isolation and living conditions they compare to prison. They'll sometimes jump in their trucks and blast down the highway at 160 kilometres an hour, just for the feeling. Kailyn comes on the intercom to announce we've arrived at Suncor's oil sands property.

"Up ahead, you'll have the chance to get off the bus and take some pictures," she says.

Looking for Bit-u-Men

Forty minutes later, everyone's finished posing in front of the big truck wheel. Kailyn does a quick head count. Across the aisle, a young kid from Swift Current, Saskatchewan, stares out the window. His feet don't touch the floor.

"My dad works up here," the boy says.

"Do you see him often?" asks a man holding an expensive camera.

"No."

The bus drives parallel to a blackish ridge. It crosses the Athabasca River and loops through Suncor's onsite refinery, a forest-like tangle of steel girders, twisting pipes and rigid towers. Two workers speckled with wet dirt struggle to control a high-pressure hose. Kailyn runs up and down the aisle. "Does anyone have any questions?"

Past the refinery, we curve alongside a toxic tailings pond. Small metallic figures wearing hard-hats -- known in industry parlance as "effigies," "scarecrows" or "Bit-u-Men" -- bob on tires. They're meant to scare away birds. One lies face down in the shallows, his orange outfit turned gray. The bus now enters Syncrude’s Mildred Lake mine. Our destination is a major tourist attraction just off Highway 63 called the "Giants of Mining".

We pull over beside a "bucket wheel reclaimer" and "dragline" the size of small apartment buildings. In the distance, across dark and barren fields, Syncrude towers spit flames into the sky. Everyone is snapping pictures. Two nearby cops aim a speed gun at passing motorists.

"My dad once got pulled over," the kid from Saskatchewan remarks.

"Your dad doesn't know the meaning of slow," replies his grandmother.

"My dad," says the kid, "doesn't know the meaning of 'live' either."

She chuckles cautiously. "Yes he does."  [Tyee]

25  Comments:

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  • sthrendyle

    1 year ago

    boomtown...

    I grew up in a boomtown where in fact many workers came FROM Fort MacMurray (we heard it was an evil place, even back in the 70s). In my home town (Kincardine, on Lake Huron) it was nuclear power. The town - a very pretty place - has never experienced anything close to a recession, though housing prices are much cheaper than they are in Fort Mac.

    I liked Geoff's story. He didn't crap all over the place and yes, I'm sure it's pretty boring but y'know, I don't think it's exactly slave labour, either. My father was a school principal and there were dropouts from his classes who made more money than he did. But when he died, hundreds of people came out to pay their respects.

    A friend of mine was an art instructor at Grant Macewan College in Fort Mac and raised his two kids there. They skied in winter, canoed and hiked and biked in the summer, and generally loved it.

    All of these small towns will have a professional class of enlightened, intelligent people who truly contribute positively to the community. They might not retire there, but they will contribute to the fabric of life in a positive way. It would be great to see those types of people get some press, too.

    Sadly, the economy of the Lower Mainland just doesn't produce these kinds of jobs at all, or even jobs like the Toyota plants of southwestern Ontario.

    I don't blame people who pull up stakes and move to Fort Mac or Fort St John at all. If they have a good plan, they can set themselves up for life.

  • Jeffrey J.

    1 year ago

    Benefits to Workers Irrelevant

    That a massive, exploitive industrial project may benefit a few workers is irrelevant to why the project is undertaken. If no workers benefit, the project will still go ahead. If a percentage of the project's profits (5%?, 7%) go to pay workers, it is considered "the cost of doing business" and the oligarchy will hold its nose and reluctantly pay the workers. If they could pay them even less, so much the better. If they could pay them nothing, now we're talking. Jobs, jobs, jobs is simply PR spin on the desire to extract as much oil as possible, destroying the environment along the way, with little concern for the health of the environment or mother earth or the rest of the people who live on it.

    This is an industrial model with absolutely no connection with democracy or logic, but all about wealth and monopolization. Every moral leader for the past 2,500 years has recognized that this is not the purpose or meaning of human existence. Yet when the majority of citizens tries to curtail monopoly corporate behaviour, watch out.

    Workers are not responsible for this structure, and nor can they stop it even if they wanted to. They are pawns in this process just as workers are around the world, and just as slaves were not very long ago.

    Great coverage!

  • hakaakah

    1 year ago

    Nuclear is the only thing

    Nuclear is the only thing going to get us out of this fossil fuel debacle. We are falling behind. Way behind. Something akin to a Liquid Floride Thorium Reactor is what should be re introduced. Its insane we are sinking our tax dollars into anything else. Nobody can tell me nuclear energy used for power has killed more people than fossil fuel or coal. Yet we still chug forward with it using grants and R&D money into making coal and fossil fuels cleaner? Its insanity and archaic. Jurrasic even.
    Well said Jeffrey J!
    Great piece.

  • doggone

    1 year ago

    We can see the enemy

    In the mirror on the wall (sometimes in the "rear view", I suppose.)
    I just pumped $68.18 CDN into my Chev 4x4.
    Should last maybe a week since I only take jobs close to home.
    If I knew how to handle an horse and cart I'd be looking (futilely in B.C.) for a well trained mule.
    Mind you I would never attempt to compete on our highway - or most of our secondary roads - with the folks in their silent slippery Hybrids trying to get the kid to daycare on time.
    SynCrude
    Perfect!

  • hakaakah

    1 year ago

    Let me guess. Your the only

    Let me guess. Your the only one driving it(Chevy 4x4). What a waste. Buy a four cylinder at least. Or, you need the truck to pull your boat quad? Likely not a sail boat. Mules arent gonna solve the problem. [GOADING REMOVED. -MODERATOR.]

  • Noggy

    1 year ago

    No thanks, I'll stay home where I'm loved!

    An above average income is excellent justification for raping the human spirit and destroying the land into perpetuity.

    Hell, if I wasn't diseased from working with asbestos or my spine degenerating from years of labouring, I'd be getting myself to the oil sands, for some extra self-inflicted misery.

  • hakaakah

    1 year ago

    Well noggy.. I wonder how

    Well noggy.. I wonder how many out at the tar sands will be EDITED FOR PERSONAL INSULT Tired and broken down. All for the advancment of their RV payments. While the rest of us look for a solution that doesnt choke the life out of this planet. Fourth gen nuclear is the only solution. Do some research and tell me otherwise. I mean for gods sake the South Koreans have secured orders for 2 reactors to the United Arab Emigrates. Sooo..if the guys selling us this crap are buyin em..whats that tell you? Tells me if we dont get our crap together. They will be saving billions...making trillions...selling us whats left of there dirty energy.

  • hakaakah

    1 year ago

    http://sites.google.com/site/

    http://sites.google.com/site/canadaenergycrisis/can-nuclear-power-really-be-green

    Worth a read and what so many of us should be asking more questions on.

  • doggone

    1 year ago

    No at least two people drive the vehicle at any time

    Don't be silly

  • morechatter

    1 year ago

    Oil Sands maybe a dinosaur at that

    Oil Sands is attracting a great deal attention as of late and it is no surprise fortune 500 companies are doing the environmential thing and saying no thanks US companies will have none of that. And it is curious as Harper could care less about the environment and are self appointed King could find himself out in the cold instead of the Artic looking to do more damage than can ever be imagined, imagine that.

  • doggone

    1 year ago

    Nuclear -get your gumboots

    it ain't that simple. So yer new fancy reactor JUST produces stuff with like: a couple hundred years of "Half Life"?
    For Cryin' out loud

  • morechatter

    1 year ago

    World's Dirtest Oil Producer

    Are the Chinese as gives Canadians a get-out-of-jail card to avoid any carbon legilsation by investing a whooping $4.65bn in the world’s dirtiest oil, that will now be destined to the thirsty markets of the Chinese rather than the slowly declining American one.

    China’s Sinopec oil company is to pay the American company ConocoPhillips $4.65bn for a 9% stake in Syncrude Canada.

    This is the largest project in Canada’s tar sands industry, pumping an estimated 350,000 barrels a day, about 13% of Canada’s overall oil output.

  • RockyRacoon

    1 year ago

    A trailer home cost nearly 1/2 million during the boom

    well things are still booming. Those workers should at least be put up in hotels with recreation centres-at a minimum. I would even support tar sands development IF it could be done in an environmentally safe way-it cannot. The drain on the water supply alone is not worth the price and the size of those ponds. Don't think for a minute if we were to pollute the US water basin that they wouldn't have us in court and seize the whole dam works.
    We are no different to Iraq or Iran to them and they will treat us the same way when it becomes vital to their national interests. Of course our chicken shit politicians don't ask for sfa in royalties or environmental standards so they have no need to invade. Try selling to China at a higher price with better technology and see what happens. Why do you think Cisis put out that scare story about ASian spies not long ago. China wants into the tar sands that is why.
    Capitalism is a criminal enterprise and our politicians are nothing more than button men. To bad we sold our oil refineries we could have set the industry standards and I agree with our going nuclear-all those billions now going down the drain or to General Electric Harper is starving them out so he can say they are unsustainable and need to be sold. What a Co*ksucker. I never though I would be defending nuclear energy but our reactors don't even need the high grade plutonium anymore and the waste can't be turned into weapons grade material. We should be selling our CANDU's to Iran instead Russia is. Oh and those professionals working in the patch well their kids won't live long enough to benefit from any of it. Those tar sands are turning the earth and the water into cancer causing agents-nothing will be useable in the not to distant future and it does look like a catastrophe is in the making. One of those toxic ponds is bigger than the answar dam is it? Those cats are making the love canal look like the healing baths in Lourdes France.

    RR

  • freebear

    1 year ago

    IF and when the tarsands are gobbled up till none left

    "You can be sure those 'regular' folk will abandon Fort Mac once the paycheques end.

    Its like the traditional company town where the 'nabbies draw their pay and then pay their rent' (Ode to Gordon Lightfoot!) and when the unsutrainable resource is used up they leave!

    (Gagnon, Quebec is a ghost town, formerly a mining town, in east-central Quebec. It was founded in 1960 by the Quebec Cartier Mining Company for the purposes of mining iron ore.

    By the mid-1980s, it was no longer turning a profit. The mines were closed and the town fully dismantled in 1985. All buildings and nearly all of the streets were dismantled. The town's main street remained and is now part of Route 389. That section of highway retains a boulevard configuration, complete with a median, sidewalks, and sewers, despite being deep in the wilderness, hundreds of kilometres from the nearest active community." (Ask Encyclopedia)

  • hakaakah

    1 year ago

    Well said RR. I think a

    Well said RR. I think a majority us are on the same page. The fact this serious is called the Mordor diaries should indicate how archaic fossil fuels are. The LFTR reactor has been out of service as long as Ive been on the planet. What disgusts me is OUR generation could have advanced this technology even further. By now. We may have had a LFTR reactor car/truck sized. Instead....disgusting.

  • Jerry Munro

    1 year ago

    Noggy...

    "Hell, if I wasn't diseased from working with asbestos or my spine degenerating from years of labouring, I'd be getting myself to the oil sands, for some extra self-inflicted misery." Noggy.

    Hear ya, Noggy. Sometimes a man, no bloody less than a woman, does what he has to do for himself and his family to survive and thrive... nowhere more than this side of capitalism, as the economic depression reality begins to take serious hold and bite all over. Some here may not understand that, but I sure as hell do, brother.

    And I'm damned sure those Chilean miners paying the price underground right now, for their relatively good wages in bad times, understand this too.

    The goody two shoes on the left/progressive and right can rave all they want.

    Take care, brother.

  • morechatter

    1 year ago

    Coyoteman

    There is nothing wrong with doing a hard days work but at the end of the day it shouldn't be at the expense of the environment or the world for all that matters. Like I said the oil sands are now considered as low as you can go as Canada is taking a beating around the world for sure. China has no problem with that as children in China also know what a hard days work is working with dangerous particles and chemicals. It is understandable with children the little ones don't know the difference between right and wrong.

  • morechatter

    1 year ago

    So Do You Think Harper/Campbell Clinched the Sale?

    Must have as how convienient US Company must be happy as hell getting out of the tar/oil sands when it starts to get in their face as likely hood of real backlash from US and around the world. China dosen't care you can just take a look at China's environmential record to see it is really scary and the Feds have failed to step up to the plate.

  • morechatter

    1 year ago

    I'm sorry China

    Canada dosen't care.

  • Jerry Munro

    1 year ago

    Falling Into The Toilet... Morechatter

    "There is nothing wrong with doing a hard days work but at the end of the day it shouldn't be at the expense of the environment or the world for all that matters." wrote morechatter.

    And most here, quite likely even working at the grunt level for Suncor, if they were being honest, would sure as hell not disagree with that. But the moral, ethical and practical dynamic at work in capitalism is, starting at the top and spilling over like shit on everyone else to the very bottom, every man and woman for his/herself, and the devil take the hindmost. Then we are surprised that the working class gets drawn into this "free market cesspool" no less, often with no choice if they and their families are not to fall into the working poor or the underclass.

    It is necessary to understand the dynamics and pressures at work here, especially since the Social Democratic State of capitalism rolled over in the early 80s, compounded by the slide into economic depression ever since, and the "peak oil crisis". If we, especially "the left" doesn't understand this, and have some empathy with all working people, then we wind up blaming the wrong people as the primary cause. (And yes, everyone in society has to accept some share of the responsibility as enablers, no doubt.)

    Still, "The System" is fugged. It leaves people no or few other options. Change the underlying socio-economic system, instead of preaching in a vacuum from the holy mount.

    Life is not simple. A moral highground does not currently exist... only a shabby, corrupted reality into which everyone gets sucked, and how deeply and with what stench attached, depending on your circumstances at any given moment.

    The oil sands are a travesty, no doubt. But the politics and practical economic realities of it for large numbers of the working class are complex and nuanced too. Some people fall into the toilet and can come out of it smelling like a rose. Most of us, however, come out of it smelling quite like something else.

  • morechatter

    1 year ago

    Paid 2 BILLION more than anticipated

    Isn't that something Analysts said that the price paid by Sinopec for the Conoco stake was about $2bn more than was expected. "It just shows that the Chinese are a different kind of buyer," said Phil Skolnick, an analyst with Genuity Capital Markets.

  • morechatter

    1 year ago

    Necessity

    The mother of all inventions, and Coyoteman I'm not knocking the working man sorry if you got it wrong. I was looking at the politics and the questionable dealing going on and the serious harm that has been done to the working stiff who does what they can when they can out of the necessity to make a buck.

  • Jerry Munro

    1 year ago

    "I was looking at the

    "I was looking at the politics and the questionable dealing going on and the serious harm that has been done to the working stiff who does what they can when they can out of the necessity to make a buck." wrote morechatter.

    And my apologies for having misunderstood you, brother/sister. :-)

  • zalm

    1 year ago

    morechatter/coyoteman

    Not to slag the little guy too much, but even as the little guys from Fort Mac struggle to earn their $95,000-a-year bread, they still have a responsibility to participate in the governance process of this country, not sell out to it. Remember tractorman? A power engineer on this board from the sands who vigorouosly defended the sands as clean and green? That's a sellout.

    Working here is just like working at Litton Systems, or Bombardier Military Systems, or GM Defense, or SNC-Tec - it earns you a paycheque, but what are you doing to change the need for your job to survive in its present form? How can any job that builds machines expressly for killing other people, especially in other countries half-way around the world, rank as an honourable way to earn a living, even if you are a top-flight metallurgical engineer with degrees up the wazoo?

    It's what you do with the rest of your life that counts, and when some of these guys climb into their 300HP behemoth and fly on down the highway in a death trip to nowhere at a hundred miles an hour... well, they're living the unexamined life, and like all lives not worth living, I'm entitled to call them on it, and so are you. As, in different ways, you have both done.

  • Jerry Munro

    1 year ago

    Don't disagree, Zalm...

    Don't disagree, Zalm.

    But the reality is, as I keep saying, just about everybody I know, even a lot of the self-stroking goody two shoes have sold out to the system. Capitalist ideology has won. They own the battlefield.

    Unions have sold out. Which makes it doubly hard to buck the pressure.

    Besides, in my mind, as bad as it is, working for Suncor is no worse than working for the financial industry right now, or being a copy and basically being preoccupied with serving the ruling class. Or being a soldier and serving the US Empire cause in Afghanistan.

    For many there as grunts at Suncor, it's do that or flip burgers, and deal drugs and join the underclass. When the shit is hitting the fan, especially as it is in the current economy, folks will do what they have to do... and the preachers with their pie in sky when you die can pontificate 'til the cows come home.

    I'd do the same damn thing, frankly, to see that my family was properly housed, fed, and given a chance to climb out of the toilet hole.

    And its going to be this way until capitalism is once and for all dealt with, and there's a real and viable alternative to the current lives of the working class. Like it or get something else happening.

    It's all coming undone anyway Zalm, and going to be dealt with soon enough, one way or another.

    Being a bus driver was crap... arguing with folks that really couldn't afford it, over nickles and dimes.

    Shit always runs downhill and settle to the folks at the bottom, doing the grunt work... it's that way it is in the class system. They, of all people, should do better. I agree. Kick ass bigtime, in the self-righteous class system, where the pus oozes out at the top.

    Blame the friggin' grunt. He's the problem. No doubt.

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