Opinion

Tried the Slimehead? Delicious!

How renaming fish is hastening their extinction.

By Jennifer Jacquet, 20 Oct 2008, TheTyee.ca

Slimehead

You know it as orange roughy.

Every once in a while, an urban neighborhood ditches its gritty old identity and gentrifies by way of a sleek new name. Scruffy South-Central has now disappeared from California maps, replaced with the more dignified "South Los Angeles." Who knows what condo sellers are starting to call the Downtown Eastside of Vancouver as they push their new condo developments?

The rename game is working the same way for seafood. Slimeheads weren't a culinary hit until they became "orange roughy." Today's "spotted sunfish" are yesterday's stumpknockers.

Fishermen off Canada's West Coast once cursed tiny invertebrates that clogged their nets, calling them whore's eggs. Then they realized their little pests were worth big money in Japan. The sushi craze spread across North America where whore's eggs have now been renamed "spicy sea urchin."

Similarly, the same fishermen once discarded their rock crab, also known as mud crabs, until one fishmonger realized that a new name might mean a new market. Rock crab became "peekytoe crab" -- now the darlings of many high end chefs.

Why 'St. Peter's fish' sank

In only a few cases have governments intervened in the renaming frenzy. In the early 1990s, tilapia importers tried to reinvent their product as "St. Peter's fish," since tilapia can be found in Israel's Sea of Galilee and the new name would resonate in the U.S. Bible Belt. The U.S. government denied the evangelical makeover. In 1994, the U.S. government also denied a petition to officially change Patagonian toothfish to Chilean sea bass (toothfish is not at all related to the sea bass).

Industry should be denied the right to makeover its fish because there is far more at stake than a cute name. The renaming of fish confuses consumers as well as complicates trade and fisheries management.

Patagonian toothfish, found in the waters around Antarctica, are in serious decline due to illegal overfishing. In Canada, importers of toothfish confuse the common names Patagonian toothfish and Chilean sea bass, which has allowed 30 to 50 per cent of toothfish imports to enter Canada under a customs code designed for sea bass, an entirely different and unrelated species.

Jon Leibowitz (which "sounded too Hollywood" so he became Jon Stewart) and Calvin Cordozar Broadus (now Snoop Doggy Dogg) decided adopting different names would help them become more popular entertainers. Something similar is happening when original names for some fish are discarded because they don't look appetizing on a menu. "May I recommend the fresh stumpknocker today with a crisp Chardonnay…?" Nice try.

Naming the problem: overfishing

Names like slimehead or mud crab or whore's eggs likely were bestowed upon seafood by people who assumed nobody would want to eat such seafood.

But as demand for seafood has grown and fish in the sea have diminished, we help feed demand and denial by changing the names of fish that sound unfit to eat to sound like fish that are. Spiny dogfish becomes "rock salmon." What's the result? Not good for fish of all kinds. Let's say we want more salmon, but are running short of them. The market gives us a substitute -- "rock salmon" -- but the result is to raise the status of, and make us even hungrier for, real salmon -- thus hastening their demise. In 2002, having run short of old-fashioned Dover sole, the U.K. retailer Marks & Spencer got the nod from government authorities to rename a fish called witch as "Torbay sole." The witch didn't make Dover sole any safer.

"We must recognize renaming seafood for what it really is," says Daniel Pauly, director of the Univeristy of British Columbia Fisheries Center. "A clear symptom of overfishing."

In the meantime, perhaps the trend suggests a new renaming game for all to play. Dogface witch eel. Triplewart sea devil. Ratfish. Acned snake eel. Rotten finger. Fangtooth snake eel. Redspined devilfish. Warteye stargazer.

Got better names for any of these?

What do your taste buds, and wallet, want to call them instead?

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10  Comments:

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  • Urbanismo

    4 years ago

    Tried the Slimehead? Delicious!

    A couple of years ago, visiting my Yorkshire home town, Scarborough we popped out for fish and chips.

    Ah give me North Sea Halibut.

    And what do I get? Rock Cod! Which turned out to be Dog Fish!

    YUK . . .

  • Feverish

    4 years ago

    Local vs. global

    While the global marketplace has been great for people that love to consume, it is disasterous for the "little fish" such as the farming family and wild fish stocks on both coasts Canada.

    There is no more intelligent act nor stronger show of support that we, as conscious beings, can make than to eat locally, seasonally and healthily. Our children & neighbours, not to mention our own minds & bodies, will be nurtured.

    We must still be able to honour our commitment to helping food producers in the rest of the world by supporting the purchase of staple, traditional crops, but we need to do a little research into the methods employed in the production of these items and know just who it is that we are actually supporting. Obviously this is more easily done when the products are originating within our province, but knowledge is attainable if we desire it.

    Instead of contributing to the desacration of the oceans, we would be better served by supporting a sustainable salmon fishery, be it wild or "farmed." Clearly there is a need to improve the methods of cultivation, and if we support those that are in court demanding it, we will get there sooner.

    Strangely, it is often our own elected officials that make tasks like this more difficult. What we need in this province is to have contributions to political parties from business made illegal if we are to put the interests of all citizens at the top of the list of government priorities.

    Demand for such things is made in the courts these days, but I still feel that when the strength of the collective feeling is demonstrated with pitch forks and torches at the seat of government, it is harder to ignore and arguably more effective. I have a feeling we will get back there soon enough, locally as well as globally.

  • Sam Salmon

    4 years ago

    I never seen a reference

    I never seen a reference anywhere to any marine organism called 'Spicy Sea Urchin'-there is no such thing and Sea Urchins are harvested by scuba divers not netted.

    See here for details http://www.bcseafoodonline.com/files/red_sea_urchin.html

    I submit the author has fabricated the Whore's Eggs/Spicy Sea Urchin nonsense.

    A quick web search would have saved the author the embarrassment of being caught out as a liar.

  • southdeltawalker

    4 years ago

    Poor ol' Pollack-Not California Dreamin...

    Years ago when that horrible "crab and "lobster" hit the market-you know the stuff with the pink lines, i felt sorrow for the poor ol' Pollack. It was the main ingredient of this phoney shellfish. This was an invented product to sell Pollack.

    Now thanks to millions and millions of california rolls being eaten-that "crab" with the avocado is actually Pollack-it is threatened.

    You might want to think about this next time you see cheap california rolls. Everything has it price and the Pollack is paying for the sushi craze.

  • c otter

    4 years ago

    pollock

    Guess what, the pollock in that california roll also provided a huge amount of feed (through their planktonic larvae) for growing salmon in the Gulf of Alaska. Everything does indeed have its price

  • realisticman

    4 years ago

    California Rolls

    That imitation crab is called kamaboko,(Kamaboko has been made in Japan since the 14th century) which is made with surimi, which is typically made from white-fleshed fish, (such as pollock or hake)and also:
    Milkfish (Chanos chanos)
    Swordfish (Xiphias gladius)
    Tilapia
    (Oreochromis mossambicus)
    (Oreochromis niloticus niloticus)
    Big-head pennah croaker (Pennahia macrocephalus)
    Golden threadfin bream (Nemipterus virgatus)
    Cod (Gadus morhua)
    Bigeyes (Priacanthus arenatus)
    Pacific whiting (Merluccius productus)
    Alaska pollock (Theragra chalcogramma)
    Various shark species.

    There's also the genus of anglerfish, the fish that goes fishing. The most common member of the family sold in north America is called goosefish, sold as monkfish. It's also known as poor-man's lobster because of it's chunky firm flesh. The large ugly head is cut off before the fish goes to market (sometimes known in France as the devil of the sea [lotte]) and what's left is a slimy chunk of body and tail, which used to mean it was unattractive and cheap in north America. The chunks of flesh don't flake so it's good for kebobs, it's also low in fat, so it's not so cheap anymore.

    Don't get me started on groupers and porgies.

    If ever there were a need for an international organization with billions in funding for policing authority, it is there in the oceans.

  • David Beers

    4 years ago

    Administrator

    sam salmon

    See this NYT reference to urchins as 'whores eggs' -- one of many on the web.

    http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9C0CE1D7113EF930A35753C1A966958260

  • ME2

    4 years ago

    Arrrgh, a can of worms you can't even fish with.

    RMan opines:

    "If ever there were a need for an international organization with billions in funding for policing authority, it is there in the oceans."

    Certainly there is a need for an international organisation to police international waters, but I cannot see an international funding agreement happening, since so many countries depend upon illegal or quasi-legal fishing for food and revenue.

    It's worth a try, of course, but IMO, Canadians would be much better advised to lobby our gov'ts for a revitalising of DFO, which is now more a joke than a policeman, OR competent manager, the result of constant "downsizing" and underfunding.

    Want to find some new ocean research? Don't waste your time looking in DFO sites - you'll have to go to a US site to find new, original research in the Fisheries, just as is the case with Forestry. (and you'll probably get the data without paying for it, too). It's just that WE can't afford all that useless nonsense, you see.

    And what right can we claim to stick our noses into other nation's business when we can't settle Alexandra Morton's Sea Lice
    issue? ANYWHERE else and she'd have won her case two years ago. So where's the public outcry over this corrupt Campbell gov't's fronting for the fish-farms, the bulk of which are owned by the world's largest fish-farmer? (whose name escapes me, and I'm not going to bother looking it up)

    G'nite

  • freebear

    4 years ago

    Would You Vote For a Slimehead!

    The article made me think which politicians changed their name!?

    Gord Slimehead for Premier?!

  • Dungeness_Crab

    4 years ago

    They're all after me sweet,

    They're all after me sweet, sweet meat!

    *scuttles away rapidly*

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