Opinion

Save Our Oceans, Eat Like a Pig

Let's stop wasting tasty fish on animal feed.

By Jennifer Jacquet, 17 Apr 2007, TheTyee.ca

Pig at a trough (CG illustration)

For the 'forage fish' shopper.

Thirty-six per cent of all marine fish caught are used to feed animals, according to a new study on forage fish from the Sea Around Us project at the UBC Fisheries Centre. "Forage fish" were so named because they often wind up as meals for other fish, marine mammals, or birds. Today we catch 30 million tonnes of these small, wild fish and grind them up into fish meal and oil to feed chicken, fish, and pigs.

Baked Fillets of Mackerel with Lemon and Spices

Baked Fillets of Mackerel with Lemon and Spices

Ingredients 4 small mackerel, filleted Pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper Juice of 1 lemon 1 chili pepper 1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed Sunflower oil

Method

  • Pre-heat the oven to gas mark 5, 375°F (190°C).
  • Wash the mackerel fillets and pat dry with kitchen paper. Place them on a board, skin side down, and season with salt, pepper and half the lemon juice.
  • Cut the chili pepper in half lengthways, de-seed (wash your hands after this, and do not touch your eyes), then finely chop the flesh.
  • Scatter the chili and coriander over the mackerel and lightly rub into the flesh of the fish. Leave for 30 minutes.
  • Lightly oil a baking dish. Close the fillets, as you would an open book, place in the baking dish, sprinkle with the remaining lemon juice and a little oil and dust with pepper.
  • Bake uncovered for 20 to 30 minutes until the fillets are cooked.

Serve immediately.

Dr. Daniel Pauly, co-author of the report with Drs. Jackie Alder and Reg Watson, has come to disagree with the label "forage fish," which he views as synonymous with waste. "We should never have followed the fish meal industry on the slippery slope of naming edible fish 'forage fish' in the first place," says Pauly. "These fish could provide humans with large quantities of protein but we waste them by using them as raw material for fish meal."

A half-century ago, less than ten per cent of fish caught were used to make into fish meal. Pigs and chickens were fed mostly grains and fish farming was a cottage industry. Today, with fisheries in much dire straits and a heightened awareness about global malnutrition, why are we turning more than one-third of our marine fish into powdered pig feed? One part of the answer is that fish meal is price competitive with soymeal and other grain feeds because the fish are caught in developing countries willing to take low prices for the fish.

The other part of the answer is that, particularly in the Americas, many of the "forage fish" species, such as blue whiting, herring, sardines and anchovies have simply gotten a bad rap. These little fish are perfectly tasty but need a facelift in the marketplace. Consumers and governments must be convinced that it is more efficient, lucrative, and ecological to instead feed pigs, chickens, and fish a plant-based diet -- and for people to forage on forage fish instead. The price for such fish will rise as they are used for table fish rather than fish meal, and the result might well be fewer fish scoured from oceans, more people better fed, and more income for developing nations.

Enter Dr. Patricia Majluf from Lima, Peru.

Extreme fish makeover

Majluf works with fur seals and penguins off the Peruvian coast, where she "saw an ever reducing resilience to El Nino events in these populations, largely due to availability of Peruvian anchovy."

The Peruvian anchovy fishery began around 1950 and since then has contributed, at times, up to half of the world's fish meal. Much of this fish meal is used to feed farmed fish farms in China as well as livestock and farmed salmon ("floating pig farms" says Pauly).

Yet, as Peru exports roughly 8 to 10 million tonnes of anchovy each year, half of its population, 15 million people, lives under conditions of critical poverty. Majluf found it illogical that Peru has 25% infantile malnourishment and yet "millions of tons of fish is taken from the ocean and fed to pigs and fish."

"But Peruvians are finicky eaters," explained Majluf. "The government had been trying to get them to eat anchovies for years and they made some pretty nasty products that didn't taste good."

Majluf then found a way to generate more money for the Peruvian economy, feed more people, and leave more anchovies for marine life. She got herself introduced to the top chef in Lima, Gaston Acurio, who is pushing Peruvian cuisine to gain global status. Majluf, Chef Acurio, and a team of others inspired a media frenzy with the launch of their "Discover the Anchovy" campaign last December -- a week of anchovy cuisine inspired by a fusion of "biodiversity and gastronomy."

Fish meal into a meal of fish

During Discover the Anchovy week, 18,000 people tasted anchovies at more than 30 restaurants in Lima, the nation's capital. Majluf then sealed the meal when, late last year, Peruvian President Alan Garcia broadcast his meal of anchovies on television. The president had single-handedly inspired Peruvians to eat chicken in the early 1980s, so too, he got his nation salivating for a new fish.

Since his television appearance, the president has hosted several more anchovy dinners at his palace. "The government has fully embraced using anchovies for food," explains Majluf. "Now 30 per cent of their budget, or about US$80 million, for food security programs will go to supplying anchovies."

Anchovies are also making more money for the Peruvian economy as canned fillets rather than as fish meal. One tonne of fillets is sold for five times the price of one tonne of meal and requires half the fish (three tonnes for one tonne of fillets versus six tonnes for one tonne of meal).

'Morally repugnant'

Peru faces many challenges in turning fish meal to a meal of fish, including how to address their excess capacity in fish meal processing plants, how to politically strategize for the long-term, and how to move toward ecosystem-based rather than single-species management. But Majluf is optimistic.

"The majority of people didn't know [anchovies] or that there was a different wonderful way to look at them," says Majluf. And many countries "now want [Peruvian] fish rather than turn it into meal." She believes Peruvian anchovies have potential in Spanish, African, and Chinese markets, though she has less hope for her neighbors. "Chile needs all the fish meal they can get to feed their farmed salmon," which Majluf believes is the top priority of the Chilean government.

The fishers in Peru will not see many immediate economic gains of the fish makeover since they are "price-takers." But, according to Pauly, "[fishers] will regain some dignity because wasting fish is morally repugnant." And they might get to eat anchovies rather than only catch them.

"Anchovies are really nutritious," says Majluf. "Now there are fresh anchovies in every market in Lima and they're cheap." Majluf now eats a plate of anchovies for lunch or dinner almost daily. The Peruvian example serves as an inspiration to make a real meal of our fish and thus literally eat like a pig.

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25  Comments:

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  • flattax

    4 years ago

    Good article...Take it further

    At least pigs and fish are for human consumption.

    I would also say that home pets, such as cats and especially dogs, also eat food that could be consumed by humans.

    I find it ironic that many people that own dogs would be environmental or social advocates. Consider the resources that goes into a dog such as food and medical care. Probably more that some third world children get. Not to mention feces and its disposal.

    Having a pet, especially a dog, is a purely selfish act with no good to society. It is time we see dog owners for what they are: Selfish in nature, putting their animals before others in need.

    Perhaps a subject another article.

  • Right to Bear

    4 years ago

    Good article...

    Good article and I am always glad when issues relative to human exploitation and abuse are brought out. It is the first step towards change me thinks.

    It is also important to say that humans too need to become less reliant on the oceans for food as our oceans are so depleted. More vegetable protein and organically farmed fish situations would be a good consideration in the future imo.

    Important to the health and life of humans is indeed food, but enough cannot be said about the need for love and companionship, without which people die too. Just look at a dog in a nursing home and how it lifts the spirits of these people. Dogs and humans have been together as companions forever, and their importance should not be downplayed... In saying this though, feeding them more sustainable situations IS absolutely necessary. This is not being done generally.

    I feed my dog some vegetable table scraps and a big organic or wild, slightly meaty bone everyday, NOT dog food, never have. She is 10 years old and has a genetic issue she has been battling all her life...

    Peace,

    Bear

  • Yammer

    4 years ago

    I agree with Flattax

    On this issue. (And, with having flat taxes, but that is another story.)

    Pets are protein-gobbling luxuries. I'm a hypocrite because we have three cats, but basically they are yet more examples of modern living's decadent overconsumption, like SUVs.

    I can also see the benefit of a companion animal in a society which is so highly fractured that many of us live and work in near isolation, commuting from cubicle to box.

  • Capitalism

    4 years ago

    Don't necessarily disagree

    The left should be fighting these wars. Most environmentalists agree that habitat is far and away the biggest environmental issue. Not Global Warming.

    Yet, Global warming is being exploited. Let's work to preserve wetlands, forests and species - not fight highways in economic regions.

    The left has lost its way.

  • G West

    4 years ago

    Blame the left

    First the left has to get rid of the one-sided global-capitalist system that's reponsible for much of of the environmental degredation to start with. Once that little project's done and all Capitalists have to start working for a living again instead of drinking others' sweat the environment may be saved.

    Without getting rid of the Capitalists and the Paul Wolfowitzes and their lies we're all doomed.

    You might want to check some historical records about what happened to the Northern Cod on the Grand Banks.

    Blaming the left for these problems is just funny.

  • Romeogolf

    4 years ago

    Let's work to preserve

    Quote:
    Let's work to preserve wetlands, forests and species - not fight highways in economic regions.

    How do you think wetlands, forests, and species disappear?

    With such a monumental contradiction in one sentence, you effectively destroy your own credibility, Capitalism. You can't even defend this from an economic point of view unless you are one of those ADD, navel-gazing, day trader types unable to take the long-term view and see the big picture. Nicholas Stern effectively demonstrated such folly.

    We need Gateway about as much as we need this incoherent logic.

  • thomas49

    4 years ago

    NO WONDER !!!!!!!!!

    when you DRAG THE BOTTOM OF THE OCEANS...

    coming from a family who owned a pig farm ,i can tell you those little piggies ate QUITE WELL...

    and they tasted real good too,as an end product,but they never ate as good as these little piggies in the article.

    i guess these little piggies were hard done by,by todays standards...

    don't go telling PETA ,or we aint gonna hear the end of this...then again ! whose side is PETA gonna be on...the wee fishies...or the little piggies???

    anyways...salmon stuffed pork sounds a little RICH for my diet...then again we are a parasitic SPECIES and nothing surprises me anymore.

    what did you feed your cat/dog/bird/lizard/kid today ??????????

  • Capitalism

    4 years ago

    Romeo Golf

    Quote:
    How do you think wetlands, forests, and species disappear?

    Capitalism.

    Though, we can coexist. The Forestry industry in BC is a prime example. We've had responsible logging, with minimal risk to habitat and good reforestation programs.

    Man will consume every last thing on this planet if we let him. We can share this earth - it is pretty big.

    For example - I would NOT start drilling in Alaska like many Republicans want. Why? You'll interrupt a vital migration path.

  • mvb

    4 years ago

    this has what to do with herring

    Quote:
    ...responsible logging, with minimal risk to habitat and good reforestation programs.

    Have you been around this province? Have you seen the devastation of the pine beetle in the pine forests in the interior?

    What you see across the province is irresponsible logging resulting in a near-destruction of habitat, and a reforestation program that focused on single-species replanting that has resulted in a disaster of epic proportions.

    I'm sure there have been logging projects that were the modeled on sustainable practices, but a trip around Prince George will open your eyes.

    Although, I do agree that the left should be fighting to protect natural habitat. Everyone should be fighting for that though...

  • EnviroMom

    4 years ago

    What about fish feed lots?

    Fantastic research and great article, Jennifer! Please take it further. B.C.'s free-floating feed-lots are destroying not only our sustainable salmon fishery but also the fish of Peru and Chile.

  • G West

    4 years ago

    gas mark 5

    Is that for your readers in Blighty, Jennifer?

    Love mackerel - what about some recipes for fresh anchovies though?

    Good article.

  • Yeoman

    4 years ago

    THis is similar to the

    THis is similar to the perversity of raising cattle on grain. They have fabulously evolved GI tracts that can digest cellulose yet a huge proportion of beef is raised on grain. Why? Like fish meal, a concentrated food source makes life easier for the producer. Unfortunately the manure also gets concentrated in one location

    I would love to see locally available fish like those listed - especially herring.

  • Yeoman

    4 years ago

    Capitalism:

    Good to see you have some environmental ethics but here are a few tough ones for you to decide on: economic zone or worthy of preservation?

    1. Fraser Estuary - largest waypoint and overwintering ground for the Pacific migratory bird flyway / site of YVR, Deltaport.

    2. Fraser River below Hope - one of world's largest salmon migration and spawning areas / Booming metropolis with ports, railways, waste outfalls etc

  • realisticman

    4 years ago

    Fresh Anchovies

    For fish eating lovers they are great to eat but they must be fresh. I used to buy them alive from the tank at a fishing shack on a pier in California. They were for bait and nobody else ate them! Even the sellers were shocked. Prepare and cook them as you would sardines or mackerel; pan fried or grilled, breaded if you like. They're a special item in Rome when in season (acciuga). I remember the waiter at our regular restaurant telling us when they had them since they were seasonal and not on the printed menu.

    Long live the mighty anchovy.

  • G West

    4 years ago

    thanks realisticman

    I think finding them fresh here might be a problem.

    What season? In Rome I mean, when I'm there next I'll ask for them.

  • realisticman

    4 years ago

    When in Rome

    October/November

  • G West

    4 years ago

    Thanks R/Man

    much appreciated

  • Romeogolf

    4 years ago

    Capitalism

    I'm glad you agree that our current form of Captalism is responsible.

    I agree, we can co-exist, only we are not. The mantra of growth has driven us to excess, past the point of equilibrium, because the numbers are incomplete, the data wrong.

    The Earth will regain its equilibrium at some point, with us or without us. Given our current performance, it will probably be with a lot less of us remaining.

  • G West

    4 years ago

    Don't know if this would work with fresh anchovies

    from Mark Bittman:

    Recipe: Pasta With Garlic, Anchovies and Tomatoes
    Time: 20 minutes

    Salt
    1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
    10 garlic cloves, peeled
    2 or 3 dried chilies, optional
    20 anchovy fillets, more or less
    2 cups halved cherry tomatoes
    Freshly ground black pepper
    1 pound cut pasta, like penne
    Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish.

    1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat; a minute later, add garlic and chilies, if using. Cook garlic so it bubbles gently. When it is lightly browned all over, add anchovies. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about a minute, until anchovies begin to fall apart, then add tomatoes. Adjust heat so tomatoes bubble nicely, and cook until mixture becomes saucy, about 5 minutes. Taste and add salt and pepper as necessary.

    2. Meanwhile, cook pasta until tender but not mushy. When it is done, drain it, reserving a little cooking water to thin sauce if necessary. Serve pasta with sauce and parsley.

    Yield: 3 to 6 servings.

  • Skookum1

    4 years ago

    lobsters as hog fuel....

    Quote:
    A half-century ago, less than ten per cent of fish caught were used to make into fish meal. Pigs and chickens were fed mostly grains and fish farming was a cottage industry.

    When I visited friends in Rhode Island several years ago, my buddy commented that around Rhode Island Sound the lobsters roamed the beach at low tide in vast numbers, as big as dogs and small sheep. The Puritans killed them as vermin and fed them to their pigs. Damn! that was a waste of good lobster....

  • Dave Shishkoff

    4 years ago

    Save The Oceans - Eat Like A Vegan

    I'm confused how someone can argue that we can 'save' something by consuming it.

    If we want to save the oceans, and particularly sea animals, why not just let them be?

    By skipping animal protein altogether, we're bypassing almost all of these issues. (And yes, eat locally produced plants as much as possible as well.)

    How about presenting a solution for the world, rather than a ways to fulfill our desire to eat whomever we want?

    I would love to see the oceans return to their previous glory, teeming with life..and it starts with your plates.

  • thomas49

    4 years ago

    eating habits !!!!!!!!!!!!

    dave shiskabob...you iz absolutely right !!!

    LEAVE ALL DEM CREATURES ALONE...LES EAT,EACH OTHER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    now there goes a protein bar i could crunch on fer awhile and swhe's really purty too...

    dave shiskabob fer premier/prezident/king/wahtever !!!

    he can do more with loaves and fishes than jesus ...

  • adamah

    4 years ago

    for those of us who do not wish to be carne free

    Personally I don't think it is realistic to assume that every human on the planet can or should live an animal protein free life (its a bit hard in the Arctic). Having several physical (i.e. allergies etc.) barriers to going completely veggie has precluded me from doing so, and frankly I don't have an issue with consuming other creatures as long as they were raised and found their end in a humane and sustainable manner. And don't throw the rationale that as a human we have the intelligence to make the choice to not eat meat. Other sentient beings (like whales and apes)invest extensive energy and enhtusiasm in killing other equally sentient beings (such as other whales and monkeys). They have a choice of food sources, and are likely cognitive enough to understand their choices (they even seem to derive pleasure from it. However, I have been striving to reduce my overall animal product consumption (for many reasons). I also try to make the best choices I can based on availability and income when it comes to the protein sources I do consume (and need), check out Hertels pork products - local and no fish meal though alas not appropriate for Kosher or Halal diets). I grew up eating herring, kippers, sardines and relished the odd anchovy pizza. Supporting them as a potential protein source for us appeals to me rather than converting yet more arable land (or forests)into soy and corn monocultures. Both crops are high on the GMO list, require intensive farming practices and not all that good for you as a protein subsitute either. If you are going to use veggie protein at all try organic hemp or flax - at least they can be used for a wide range of other products like fiber and honey production.
    Our species has been sustaining itself directly from the sea for eons. Dropping the harvesting of ocean protein is unrealistic. I would rather see sound fisheries management that uses local and traditional knowledge balanced with quotas that are based on a real understanding of ocean food chains and maintain necessary thresholds for other species.
    p.s. anchovies do make their way up here often in el Nino years, as our oceans warm perhaps they will be more common!

  • Right to Bear

    4 years ago

    Sage words adamah...

    adamah said:

    Quote:
    I would rather see sound fisheries management that uses local and traditional knowledge balanced with quotas that are based on a real understanding of ocean food chains and maintain necessary thresholds for other species

    Sage words adamah... Traditional knowledge would allow for "real" understanding indeed. And this has to be done in order to develop a respectful and sustainable use of the oceans... The FN's in these areas have been there for millennia and we need to learn from them imo.

    We still need to develop close-containment organic fish farms, and cease all salmon farming on the West Coast. These fish feedlots are a major threat to the health and survival of the oceans today, and these farms would take some pressure off the wild stock...

    Lots of work yet to be done, but thanks for your view on the subject.

    Peace,

    Bear

  • anne cameron

    4 years ago

    krill

    In the Strait of Georgia unbelievable tonnage of krill are seived from the water to be added to the processed pellets fed feed lot salmon. It makes the flesh brighter, redder, more appealing. Krill is the base of the food pyramid, it's what the small fish eat. They are then eaten by larger fish who are in turn...all the way up to the fish we eat. Take away the krill and the whole pyramid totters.

    We've almost wiped out the oolichan with our disregard for the health of the beaches. Bad logging, bad mining, bad roadwork, the list of bad practices just grows and what we do to the mute life forms in the sea we will very soon do to ourselves.

    Twenty-one species of groundfish in our waters are endangered. But occupy ourselves with Olympic wunnafulness, let the Phillistines continue to subsidize the corporations and party hearty. Maybe Gawd will take a hand.

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