Life

Coffee Hits $15 at the Pump

How far will they push addicts like me?

By Steve Burgess, 20 Aug 2007, TheTyee.ca

Latte at Caffe Artigiano

Peak bean? Latte at Caffe Artigiano

A guy like me gets pretty smug when gas prices rise. Yes, I have a car, but that's mostly so I can park it at the curb and pay the occasional fine. Living downtown it's easier to walk or cycle, so my periodic petrol purchases don't put much of a dent in my wallet. Mere financial fender-benders. The bitter tears of the bridge-and-tunnel crowd are mother's milk to me.

But today I'm scared. Because now the price of fuel is really going up. The $15 cup of coffee has arrived.

Addicted in Vancouver

It was probably inevitable that someone would figure out it's possible to charge 15 bucks for a cup of coffee and make it stick. In Vancouver, Caffe Artigiano and 49th Parallel Roasters are those people. Amid much media fanfare, they recently introduced Hacienda la Esmeralda Especial, a Panamanian bean named "world's best coffee" at the Specialty Coffee Association of America's Roasters Guild Cupping Pavilion Competition. At wholesale it went for $130 US per pound. Not quite as expensive as the Kopi Luwak coffee beans that are plucked from the feces of civet cats and sold for about $600 per pound. But pricey enough that a little pot brewed from the Panamanian beans retails for 15 smacks. If Panamanians swallowed them whole and then harvested them later, who knows how much they'd fetch?

As it turns out, the price seems to have been right. Inside of a week, the initial consignment of 80 pounds was almost sold out. Add in the huge media coverage, and a modest financial gamble has paid off handsomely for Caffe Artigiano and 49th Parallel. And for some of us, Gabriel's trumpet has sounded. Armageddon looms.

I tasted the Panamanian brew. It didn't do much for me, but that means nothing -- as an espresso fiend, drip coffee of any sort will always be piss water to me. The important thing is that a barrier has been breached. Like a future serial killer who tastes blood for the first time, a coffee retailer has taken the first step down a dark (if aromatic) path. Fifteen dollar coffee, and it sold. Fast. Now that the sellers know what the buyers will put up with, there will be no end. My fellow caffeine slaves: they're onto us. Prepare to steal television sets and sell your body to strangers.

First they hook you...

I have long known that my tidy, respectable life was poised on a knife edge. As soon as the suppliers figured out the quiet desperation of my dependence, they would begin turning the screws. Now the process has begun.

Coffee addiction is so widespread that it provided the answer to a mysterious medical syndrome. For years, doctors wondered about the phenomenon known as "post-surgical headache," the common tendency for most patients to wake up in the recovery room with a pounding head. Eventually the truth dawned -- it was simple caffeine withdrawal, aggravated by the pre-surgical injunction against fluids. Caffeine addiction is so pervasive that doctors had assumed the condition was the result of surgery itself.

So they've got us by the short hairs. Luckily, dealers have been slow to realize it. Thus far the rise of expensive coffee drinks has been a matter of adding chocolate and caramel and foam and frou-frou touches completely unrelated to the actual addiction. This meant that addicts could escape with cheaper, more potent drinks, thick little globs of espresso to be sipped or gulped or sucked into a syringe and injected between one's toes. Not me. Not yet. But I'm close.

It happens that Caffe Artigiano is where I choose to spend my time and money, even schmoozing with staff and management. These people I took to be my friends have in fact been studying me and making plans. They saw me furtively licking the edge of my empty espresso cup. And they knew. They laughed, I know, as the realization dawned. $15 coffee -- what's the poor bastard going to do? You've got to pay the price at the pump.

There must be another way -- something cheaper. What does gas taste like? Maybe with sugar?

Addicted to caffeine? How much would you pay for coffee before the price got so high you'd quit? Please add your comment below.

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8  Comments:

  • zalm

    20-08-2007

    Actually

    I think 49th Parallel is doing a dirty on Caffe Artigiano. I was talking to the son of a friend last night who was hired to open up a new store in a month at a "secret and undisclosed location" (his words) at which this coffee will be one of the features. And it isn't for CA.

    Mmmmpppphhh... ....can't wait for the wars to break out over this one!

  • refedmel

    20-08-2007

    BURGESS AND COFFEE

    Ya gotta love it......when any society will pay $15 for a substance that provides only the fuel for a short trip to the 'commode', but then bleats on endlessly about the cost of vehicle fuel for a trip that for the same amount could take you 400ks, or so, then yes,
    "Coffee addiction is so widespread that it provided the answer to a mysterious medical syndrome. For years, doctors wondered about the phenomenon known as [self induced mental
    lobotamization] of the general population."

  • Romeogolf

    20-08-2007

    Not your average coffee

    This is a little over the top. $15.00 is for a cup of what the SCAA considers the best coffee in the world -- a limited supply with high demand, which is where the price comes from. Your average coffee guzzler is not going to appreciate it and, therefore, should not even go near it.

    There are many parallels to illustrate this: the Budweiser drinker should not buy a Thomas Hardy's Ale; a Lipton's tea bagger would not appreciate a first flush Darjeeling; a Yellow Tail stalwart might fail to savour a Chateau Musar '94, etc.

    Those who drink coffee out of a paper cup are already compromising the flavour of their coffee. Most people don't even know the basics of making a good cup of coffee and believe stale coffee is the real flavour of coffee, e.g. add dairy product + sugar to make palatable.

    Coffee, after it has been roasted, is highly perishable. Therefore, if you don't have a coffee made from freshly roasted beans and ground to order, you'll likely get stale coffee. Seattle's best is not Vancouver's best if it's roasted down south. Get good arabica roasted here.

    Once you start drinking fresh, unadulterated coffee, you can begin to explore the different flavour profiles of different "origins." In this regard, coffee is like wine. It's also interesting that dairy makes both taste better if they are of inferior quality (wine + cheese).

    Drinking excellent coffee at home won't cost you $15 per cup. It probably won't even cost you a tenth of that. It will be much cheaper than visiting Starbucks every day.

  • frank2

    20-08-2007

    $15 coffee isn't about coffee

    Starbucks et al are not selling "coffee."

    They are selling a products the demand for which is based on competition among consumers to distinguish themselves as with it, tasteful, or whatever.

    Keeping up with the Joneses through coffee consumption habits may be less environmentally harmful than "trading up" to a Hummer or a Macmansion on farm land.

    Too bad, though, that so much human creativity gets displaced into creating meretricious wants, rather than helping people meet real wants and needs more thoroughly and sustainably.

  • Stump

    20-08-2007

    Comparing coffee and gasoline

    as noted above doesn't work... because you're comparing some boutique coffee blend with everyday gas. You might better compare this uber-caffeine with liquid oxygen. I'm guessing $15 worth of rocket fuel wouldn't get you far at all.

    Having said that, I doubt I'd drop that much coin on a cup of joe, however, I must admit, the few times I've had a latte at Caffe Artigiano it was a damn fine brew.

  • G West

    21-08-2007

    If we're doing ads

    Then I'll second that Stump - even though all I ever drink is Americano and all that crema stuff is lost on me. But somebody at my table always orders one of those 'artistic' things.

    Nice.

    They tell me you can get a cup of the same Panamanian java in Victoria for less than half of the $15 tab though...according to the TC.

    Was hoping you'd weigh in on that Black Press story.

  • jwstewart

    21-08-2007

    It makes sense...

    ... I for one would require at least $600 to pluck a pound of coffee beans from cat shit... to achieve fair trade certification!

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