Can't Slaughter Like You Used To
New meat regs may end small farmers' way of life.
There is a woman in Skidegate who has been buying a side of beef from Richardson Ranch on Haida Gwaii since 1955. The steaks and roasts she's been eating all these years come from animals raised on meandering grasslands by the sea; a 20 minute drive up the coast.
The family she buys from has been operating Richardson's Ranch since the early part of the 20th century - five generations of friendly transactions between farmer and customer.
But Don Richardson, great-great-grandson of the Richardsons who settled on these islands in 1919, is worried about new provincial meat inspection regulations, which may make it difficult for him and other small farm operators to sell meat to friends and neighbours.
The regulations seek to introduce a province-wide standard for meat sold to the public. Not only will animals have to be inspected pre and post-mortem, but they must be slaughtered in an inspected plant too. This new meat inspection regulation is part of the Food Safety Act and was adopted in 2004.
Licensed and unlicensed
A recent outbreak of E. Coli contamination found in inspected Safeway ground beef may leave consumers feeling like more regulations are a great idea. The Ministry of Health says the rules are meant to provide consumers with the assurance that all meat and meat products are properly inspected for safety and wholesomeness. Already, any meat sold in retail shops or butcher shops is inspected - that's 95 percent of the meat sold in BC. The remaining five percent is processed by non-licensed facilities, in other words, the farmer next door.
Right now, there are 15 provincially-inspected plants in BC. Some are huge, open five days a week with eight-hour shifts and others are smaller, doing custom slaughter for clients and opening when the service is needed. The closest provincially-inspected plant is in Williams Lake, a six-hour ferry ride and close to 1000 kilometres by road away from Haida Gwaii. There is a federally-inspected plant in Dawson Creek, at a similar distance.
Unlicensed slaughter facilities have until September 2006 to adhere to the new regulations, or farmers selling uninspected meat to consumers will face heavy-handed fines.
Back at the ranch, Richardson, also the local veterinarian, sells beef to a handful of customers who hold coveted positions on a fairly short list. Someone has to die before anyone new gets a side of beef, he says, half joking, half serious. But beef is not his main business. He raises cattle for breeding stock. Some don't make the grade, so he slaughters them at his on-farm slaughterhouse - about 10 a year. Sending these animals to an inspected slaughterhouse is not an option, he says.
'Clean and stress-free'
John Vincent of Greenhills Croft in the Bulkley Valley is in a similar situation. He raises cattle, sheep and chickens and prides himself on running a small operation, selling quality food to local residents.
"From birth to slaughter, all of our animals are well-cared for in a clean and stress free environment. No antibiotics or unnatural farming methods are used," he says. He takes such pride in his farm, that he invites school groups and other visitors to come by anytime. Vincent sells his products to neighbours in places like Smithers, Telkwa and Quick. Currently, he hires a man to come to his farm and slaughter. The sheep or cows are hung on the property and are then sent to the local cut and wrap shop to be processed into chops, roasts and ground round.
Like Richardson, he faces the possibility his animals will have to be slaughtered in a facility 600 kilometers away. Shipping would add at least an extra $40 to $50 to the cost of each lamb, which he would have to pass on to the customer.
People may be willing to pay the added cost, which would still net out as cheaper, better lamb than major grocery stores carry, but it is the big picture that bothers Vincent.
"If a community can't provide at least the staples for itself, all we are is a satellite of the big city," he says.
'We will continue to slaughter'
Vincent raises rare breeds of livestock including Irish Dexter cattle, Shetland sheep and Buff Orpington hens. Ironically, he says, people who eat his animals are also contributing to the preservation of these unique strains of animals, an effort that would be lost if his farm can't continue.
If the new rules force him out of business, he is incensed by the thought of people in his area left with no other option than buying "rubbish from factory-farmers who don't care about their products."
"We will continue to slaughter. We have to. I don't mean to sound defiant," says Richardson, whose island-based ranch is a six-hour ferry ride away from the mainland.
Right now, he has two older cows. One has arthritis and he says he can't send her on the ferry. Not only does it cost him $1,000 each way to put his trailer on, but it is a stressful journey. Depending on the weather, the ferry can be delayed more than 24 hours, after its been loaded. He prefers to deal with the life of his cow himself.
The part that really gets to Richardson is if he slaughters the animals for his own use, he is within the law. The minute he sells meat to his neighbour, he is a criminal.
Richardson understands the regulation. It is designed to protect the consumer in a faceless system. Once a steer is shipped, he says, it is handled so many times before it's in the supermarket, there is next to no connection to the farmer.
But since he doesn't sell beef to anyone he doesn't know, he says it is a matter of philosophy.
"It comes down to a question of whether the government should be involved in a contract between you and me," he says.
"I don't want to export beef, or have it at the local meat counter or in local restaurants. I'll sell it directly to you and if you don't like it, you'll bring it back to me."
150 animals a year
The province has agreed to send an inspector to existing slaughterhouses, so the operators can find out what it will take to bring their facilities up to the new standards.
Jacques Campbell who lives on Saturna Island was visited in the fall. She and her family run the farm that provides many of the lambs to feed the masses at the annual Canada Day Lamb Barbeque.
From all she had read and heard, she was very concerned about the changes she might have to make. She and her family slaughter 150 animals a year in their on-farm slaughterhouse. The structure is timber frame, with three-foot-high cement walls, and a cement floor with a drain. The the room within the slaughterhouse where they hang the lambs has an open ceiling.
She was told the inspector would require there be a separate bathroom not in her house, as well as impermeable walls and an enclosed ceiling. She also has to be more organized about scheduling the slaughter than just gathering the neighbours when everyone has time. She has to plan for the inspector to be there.
Campbell was pleased. "It turned out not to be too bad," she said.
The scale of her facility was recognized, as well as the fact that it is a closed operation - like most small farmers, the Campbells only slaughter animals from their own farm.
She considers herself lucky. Most of the changes are cosmetic, not structural, but her parents, who built the slaughterhouse in the 1950s, had the benefit of good advice from a professional butcher.
"It wouldn't be an outrageous expense to build a slaughterhouse like ours," she said.
'U-Kill operations'
But with the meat inspection legislation encompassing everything from rabbits, ducks, chickens and turkeys, the solution for Campbell will not work for everyone.
"That's not going to help the guy in Kitimat with 14 turkeys," says Richardson. Nor will it help the 4-H club at the Bulkley Valley Fall Fair who sell 40 steers by auction to local consumers.
Others are concerned about what the may mean to their farm status. If they aren't able to raise and slaughter chickens for sale, they'll not only lose income, but land tax breaks as well.
Sending animals to a large slaughterhouse is not a favoured option, for many farmers who don't want to see their animals pumped with antibiotics and finished with grain in what they consider to be an unhealthy environment. Not to mention that, in a facility handling 5,000 head of cattle a day, who's to say whether the farmer would get their own cut and wrapped carcass back.
Richardson says the government is going to have to find some way to accommodate small farmers.
Some have suggested U-Kill operations where the consumer buys the animal live and kills it on the small farm. Others say a government-backed facility or a portable slaughterhouse could be the way to go. There is talk of a $3 million dollar meat co-op in the Smithers/Telkwa area, but with less than a year left before the interim period is over, construction hasn't yet begun.
"The cows are pregnant and they're going to have calves next year. Things can't stop," says Richardson who has been asked to submit his own ideas about how to bring some form of control on farm gate sales to the government's attention.
Heather Ramsay, based in Queen Charlotte City, is a contributing editor to The Tyee. ![]()



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allan
5 years ago
Comments on "Can't Slaughter Like You Used To"
Quite interesting that a case of E-coli at Safeway would be used to justify killing off the family farm.
I'd be willing to bet that customers of the Richardson Ranch have never become ill from its meats nor ripped off price wise as Safeway customers, who purchased beef over the past three or four years, have been.
rockyvoids
5 years ago
Oh, no doubt there is a lobbiest or a campain contributor lurking in the halls of power involved here.
skeptikool
5 years ago
Under the guise of consumer protection, this stinks of government running interference on behalf of the big operators.
The end result, if you eat meat, will be that whether or not you take prescribed drugs, you will be ingesting them. Some will see this as a war on organic.
Sunny Samson
5 years ago
I'm surprised the author didn't write about, or perhaps know about, the Vancouver Island farmer who owns Cowichan Bay Farms, a small poultry operation well-known for highly innovative methods of raising healthy livestock. In response to the new provinicial goernment rules, he is constructing (or has constructed) a million dollar plus slaughtering facility, a huge investment for a small farmer.
He is hoping to attract other small livestock operations to use his facility. It's a way to keep local, healthy farming intact and available to us. I just won't buy that crap manufactured in the huge farm factories of southern Alberta. So funny that the new federal Environment minister is from Alberta.
Anyway, kudos to the Cowichan Bay Farms owner (who's name escapes just at the moment, Lyle Jensen?) for taking this enormous risk. If you care about preserving your access to good food, please urge any small operators in your area to contact Cowichan Bay Farms about this "grass-roots" investment they are undertaking to help small, local, healthy food suppliers remain in business.
Gary
5 years ago
What about the family owned small businesses whos Dock is not the required height from the ground. The expense to alter this situation would be enormous. And I understand that if it isn't done they won't be licensed.
I think if the government is going to change things they should be required to offset the expense. Or in the case a a minor infraction that doesn't appear to be a cause of BSE or whatever, there should be an exemption or a grandfather clause.
Rhea
5 years ago
Trust the government to stick its nose in and screw up a working system. You are far, far more likely to get food poisoning from supermarket meat that's travelled god knows how many kms and been handled by umpteen people than to get it from healthy stock slaughtered by somebody who knows what they're doing on a clean farm. Not to mention that commercial feedlot and mass slaughterhouse conditions are perfect breeding grounds for disease, and produce meat stuffed so full of antibiotics that you might as well be downing pills. Grrrrrr.
Eddy Haskel
5 years ago
I'm surprized that his topic has received a bit of light. Thanks Tyee. The meat industry is certainly under a conspiracy of silence. I think the meat industry has a lot to answer for. The farmers blame the slaughterers and the slaughterers blame the farmers for the rather appalling circumstances our livestock finds itself in. If the new slaughter arrangements are well regulated and those regulations actually have enough teeth to stop practices like dragging cattle off of trucks with forklifts or the abillity to charge farmers who load and sell cattle that are too sick to wallk then we are stepping in the right direction. If not, then it is just another corporate sellout.
valley girl
5 years ago
Wonderful article. This issue simply isn't getting enough press. Remember, though, that the inspection only pertains to the slaughter, not the processing, so the ground beef example isn't totally appropriate. The main reason for ecoli in ground beef from large plants is that they grind tons of meat at a time. Any contamination and it effects not only a small local area but a large diverse one. In the Cowichan Valley, we have a few small, uninspected kill floors that also do the cut, wrap, sausage, smoking, etc. If they cease the slaughter component, they can carry on after the inspection rules kick in. They only need to upgrade their plants if they wish to continue the kill floor part of the operation. This unnecessary initiative will destroy the small farm livestock industry on Vancouver Island. We have only one red meat inspected plant and they refuse to do custom work and one plant for pigs. Totally unworkable for the small producer. This inspection initiative has absolutely nothing to do with food safety and everything to do with the ability of Canada to continue to export meat products. The only way to turn this around is to generate a groundswell of public support. The consumer must come to realize that this is an afront on the rights of all Canadians to choose what they want to eat. If these trends continue, the Canadian consumer will have to rely on Walmart for all of their nutritional rquirements. Scary thought!
ripponfalls
5 years ago
Rhea:
Ammend that to "trust the Liberal government".
Great article, folks. Hope we get a solution.
R. Smiley
Rhea
5 years ago
Nope, I assign equal blame to all levels, parties and types of government when it comes to bungling and adding unneccessary red tape. It's not limited to the Liberals...it's a characteristic of any government that they do everything they can to increase bureaucracy and decrease efficiency, especially when it comes to lovely vague areas like "food safety".
Fiat lux
5 years ago
We're a small, organic operation, but we always had our cattle butchered and processed in a government inspected facility, so there won't be any problems.
Even at that, we can still sell our meat at about half the cost of supermarket prices and quarter of the organic store prices.
However, there are no buyers, so we have to sell most of our organically raised calves at the auction sales, so they can be filled up with growth hormones, steroids, antibiotics and grain in the feedlots, because the North Aamerican public is brainwashed into eating stinking yellow tallow, called marble by the PR hacks.
Then they're surprised why kids, and generally the population, are fat as pigs. Of course they are, because they fill themselves with growth hormones and steroids, but governments wouldn't dare to question the practice, as it wouldn't be "business friendly"
Small farms are under pressure by huckster economists and governments in pay of big business to force them off the land and into cities, but proper butchering is definitely not the cause, or the problem.
If the governments are really interested in public health, and the safety of meat, they first should look at the feedlots and large meat processing plants, nothing but criminal actions against the environment and humanity.
Ed Deak, Big Lake.
Coyote
5 years ago
Another move to reduce our independence and make us yet more dependent on the Big Corporations-, in this case the big slaughterhouses-, where all the problems with Creutzfeld Jakob and the other diseases facilitated by mass food production really reside.
What was it Ralph Klein said, "Shut up, shoot and shovel."?
Only in this case we should counter that with something more in our own interests. Say, "Shut up, slaughter and cut your own backdoor deals." As much as possible anyway.
Fug 'em.
Rhea
5 years ago
I think the phrase was "shoot, shovel and shut up". A shame it couldn't applied to most of our politicians and bureaucrats...
I'd far rather deal personally with a farmer/grower I know than buy meat from a government plant. Anyone who hasn't read "Fast Food Nation" is in for a very ugly eye opener on mass food production practices, and especially slaughterhouse standards of safety and cleanliness. I don't buy supermarket meat unless I'm in an insane hurry and can't get to a butcher or better source. Luckily for me, one of our local producers is opening their own store on their farm. Their cattle are organically raised, medication free and slaughtered and processed locally. The problem people like Ed Deak face is that a lot of people prefer to pay less money for unhealthy meats, and then wonder why they get sick. Well, duh! Ed, if you were in the Lower Mainland, I'd buy from you in a heartbeat.
Fiat lux
5 years ago
The slaughterhouse we deal with is a small, privately owned operation for local ranchers.
It is government inspected for our and our customers' safety. They butcher our animals, process the meat to the individual customers' specification, freeze it and deliver it anywhere with Clark reefer trucks.
The name is Rodear Meats, located in Beaver Valley, on the owner's ranch, about half hour drive from us. The owners are Dave and Sarah Fernie. We've been dealing with them ever since they opened up good many years ago. Never had the slightest problem.
Such operations should not be put into the same basket with huge meat plants, any more than our operation compared to a feedlot. Anybody can inspect our cattle at any time.
I have no problem with health inspections, as some people are worse pigs than the ones they raise, and some operations are not fit for human consumption. A very good friend of ours, going back for about 45 years, was, the now retired head of the animal microbiology department in Abbotsford. The horror stories he told us were out of this world.
E.g. Many commercial hog farmers routinely feed the pigs' manure back to them to get the most out of the feed. One day a Fraser Valley hog farmer went to the lab with the question on whether he could feed his pigs twice with their own manure? The answer was NO.
If governments are guilty of anything, it is that they permit certain, especially corporate operations, to get away with murder. Mulroney wanted to do away with all inspections, and rely on the "competitive discipline of the marketplace".
If people knew what they're buying in the supermarkets they'd faint, but most don't even care.
Also, as I mentioned, our organic meat is half the price of the supermarket junk and about a quarter of the organic stores, but we're forced to sell at the auctions, as there's virtually no other market for our calves.
Ed Deak.
Avicenna
5 years ago
Fiat Lux, just an innocent question - what good are growth hormones once an animal is grown and ready for slaughter? Are you certain that gov't licensed butchering facilities use this rather expensive hazard on animals when they are sent there when it wouldn't have any effect on its growth at this time? I know it is illegal in Canada to inject growth hormones in dairy cattle (but not in America) - although there is a heinous overuse of antibiotics which induces the rise of antibiotic resistant bugs and this practice is greatly discouraged now. Perhaps because I'm not a meat eater that I don't see how there can be a two-tier system for standards when it comes to selling meat to consumers - whether it goes through a middle man or not. Perhaps if there could be contract or written missive given by the "non-compliant" small farmer who sells the occasional buck that states that the consumer should be aware that the meat was slaughtered in a non-certified facility/farm and is taking responsibilty of any potential health consequence by its consumption.
ROBBINS Sce Research
5 years ago
February 10, 2006
Glen P. Robbins
robbinssceresearch.com
Mr. David Beers
McGrady, Baugh and Whyte
Dear Sirs
I conduct public opinion polls and have done since 1998.
Under the recent Tyee ‘blog-article’ Emerson: The Power and the Tory, a blogger under the name Sammy Samsun has defamed and or libeled me. I do include my polling name and my real name in these blogs.
My polling firm has a history of accuracy in public opinion polling which is irrefutable, and would be considered irrefutable by anyone who reviews our results against real events.
Under the blogsite Pickton Trial: Who were the Victims? I write a little about what I perceive the law to be relative to that particular discussion.
I have a degree in Political Science, however in 1996 a BC Supreme Court Judge Ordered that “I be treated as a lawyer at all timesâ€.
As you know the Tyee is responsible for what is written on its website. In fact, within the blogstream article involving Mr. Emerson, another ‘blogger’ makes reference to the fact that ‘bloggers’ have been kicked off the site, presumably for one indiscretion or another.
Mr/Mrs. Samsun whoever he or she is, (as I am sure you will acknowledge) is playing pretty fast and loose with the Tyee’s assets. Not only is one case of fraud difficult to prove but also 150-200 cases would be impossible, particularly against our history of accuracy, which is virtually unmatched.
I would ask that the appropriate protocols be instituted here including a written apology, and I would expect a banning of the person who wrote the defamatory comments.
Sincerely,
Glen P. Robbins
(604) 942-3757
Rhea
5 years ago
Ed, just curious - do you ship your meat at all, or deal with any restaurants or resellers? I know of a few grass-fed operations in the interior that freeze and ship beef to customers out of their area, and seem to do okay.
Fiat lux
5 years ago
We can ship anywhere, have shipped to Vancouver, which isn't too bad, but it isn't very cheap to certain parts. We're not "registered" organic, because of the costs and hassle involved, but our animals are as organic as can be.
As far growth hormones, steroids and antibiotocs are concerned, some farmers and ranchers are using them, but we don't know of any around here.
The animals, we're talking about calves, are getting shot full when they're loaded on the trucks of the commercial buyers at the auction sales and then every time they change hands. There was an article in the farming paper Western Producer some years ago, where certain animals were followed, as they changed hands from feedlot to feedlot, and received 5-6 times the permitted dosages.
This has been confirmed by scientists, but there are no veterinary inspections at the sales, or at any time afterwards, and animals are not tested on the amounts of chemicals shot into them. Anybody can check this out.
This, according to scientist friends, could be one of the main reasons for the spread of bugs resistant to antibiotics. All so that they can be jammed into huge feedlots, up to 50,000 head at a time, poisoning the environment and population.
Ed Deak. Big Lake.
jesterjogger
5 years ago
A mitigating factor in the slaughter of animals is our voluntary adherence to the so-called "animal contract".
Animals we raise are well cared-for and enjoy a decent standard of living, if you will.
(you listening china?)
In exchange we eat them. We also protect them from starvation, predators(excluding us ofcourse), disease and the elements etc.
This story reminds of that poor rabbit women in Michael Moore's Roger and Me.
eressea
5 years ago
Interesting. I can understand wanting to keep a closer eye on the big slaughter houses but I think there should be some exceptions for the small farmers. The small slaughter houses or on site slaughterers should not be penalized for the sloppiness of big business. I am reminded of the Avian Flu cases in the Fraser Valley. Again the problem was with the large farms but all the birds were killed. Organic, free range and hobby farmers lost all their birds,including one woman's pet Emu. I would pick up the work truck from a chicken farm in Abbotsford and quite a few mornings I would see coyotes or eagles eating dead chickens out of the compost pile. Even though the chicken farm across the street was shut down due to the Flu, as soon as the emergency was over we stopped spraying down the trucks that were coming and going everyday. If this is what is going on on the farms, what kind of short cuts are the big slaughter houses making?
Fiat lux
5 years ago
Family farms and small businesses are the most efficient food and for the most part, also, manufacturing production methods.
This can be proven very easily by accounting the huge costs agribiz and other large scale operations transfer on society, humanity, the ecology and the future.
Some of the environmental problems we're facing today with global warming, depletion, water shortages, starvation, etc. started and accumulated for 150, or more, years. I have some books that comnplained about this 60- 80 years ago, but nobody took notice because of monetary profits.
The present economic accounting methods are only concerned with short term monetary profits, ignoring the transferred costs.
Of course, these fraudulent figures, like the GDP, show "growth", without any deductions of the present and future liabilities. Everything goes on the GDP, nothing comes off. The more disasters and illnesses we have, the bigger the GDP and the happier our economists and politicians.
Until this is changed and correct economic theories are taught in our universities, we'll be going down the hill in every possible way imagineable.
Ed Deak.
ursus
5 years ago
when I can no longer buy meat at my local organic farm I will quit eating it period and I suggest people who are concerned about their health should do the same and bring the corporations, the industrial farmers and politicians they own to their senses or bankrupt them in the process.
Consumers do have this option but sadly most don't have the courage to take a stand. My relatives who still raise cattle are trying to do the right thing and getting screwed by these bought and paid for politicians, well maybe they will finally see that their right wing ways are hurting them too but I won't hold my breath! Looks like I will going vegetarian or buying some land to raise my own dam cow chickens and turky.
ursus
5 years ago
have to wonder if co-op slaughter houses wouldn't work for honest farmers and ranchers? I would much rather get my meat from a co-op then safeway, I belong to three co-ops now, Nanaimo Vanderhoof and Keating, they are a bit expensive up front at times but in the long run I think they are the way to go, at least they pay a good wage and the profits stay in Canada instead of being siphoned off to american share holders.
ursus
5 years ago
would co-op slaughter houses work for honest farmers and ranchers? I would much rather get my meat from a co-op then safeway, I belong to three co-ops now, Nanaimo Vanderhoof and Keating, they are a bit expensive up front at times but in the long run I think they are the way to go, at least they pay a good wage and the profits stay in Canada instead of being siphoned off to american share holders.
kispiox
5 years ago
As a small time producer I have lobbied the government to make changes to the regulations to accommodate farm gate sales
, changes that won't affect export opportunities, but to no avail.
All of our product is sold directly to the consumer without being government inspected. The reasons for this are probably as varied as the customers but include reasons such as;
• lack of inspection facilities within a reasonable trucking distance, ( 36 hour round trip from the Kispiox Valley)
• religious reasons ( Kosher etc)
• personal and ethical concerns and philosophies
• a serious lack of confidence in the government inspection system
• 100% accountability and traceability
• [B]The fundamental right people have to choose where and how the food they eat is raised and slaughtered!!!
Get involved people. Don't just bitch and moan on sites like this one, bitch loud and long at your elected MP and the ministers in charge ie Pat Bell. It's not just your food source at risk here it's your freedom of choice.
clubofrome
5 years ago
...Are we rolling down hill like a snowball headed for hell? With no kinda chance for the flag or the liberty bell...
Is the best of the free life behind us now, and are the good times really over for good.
Merle Haggard
RickW
5 years ago
It's OK everyone! We now have a Conservative government in Ottawa, which is dedicated to the restoration of the rights and freedoms of the individual................