Singapore Loosens Up
Our intrepid columnist is back on the road, with tales of the 'One-Eyed Dragon.'
Lovely night. Tried the kidney?
Hello from Singapore, where death waits around every corner. But only if you litter. They run a tight ship here in the Little City-State That Could. In these parts, they'll hang you for wearing stripes with plaid.
That's the myth, anyway. Actually, there's litter enough. The vermin here are not starving. People jaywalk freely. Apparently things are loosening up so much that you can actually chew gum now. And in fact there's plenty of government-approved activity going on here in Singapore that would be illegal elsewhere. On the street that is my temporary home, there are rows of discreet little bungalows featuring fish-tank-style pens where five or 10 girls sit wearing numbers for easy ordering. Customers can stroll in, pick a girl and head for a back room, safe in the knowledge that these little dens of iniquity are all licensed and approved by the Singapore government. Or you can always go to a hotel. Somebody certainly went to mine, because the used condom was still on the floor beside the bed.
People who hear about the strict laws of Singapore -- death for drug smuggling, caning for relatively minor offences -- generally assume that this is a moralistic nanny state. Not so. Singapore's tough rules are about peace, prosperity, order and cleanliness. Not morality but practicality is king here. Chewing gum can be stopped, but not prostitution. So it's regulated. And in my neighbourhood, too.
Aside from those little sex bungalows, the Geylang district offers budget hotels -- albeit the kind where used condoms can sometimes be overlooked until they make squishy sounds between your toes -- and great food. It's famous for restaurants and produce stands. How many red-light districts offer the chance to squeeze actual tomatoes?
Enter the Dragon
The food is fabulous in Singapore, even if the names are not always promising. I'm sitting across from a place called "Food Joint 351." Perhaps you would prefer to dine at "Alex's Eating House." More disturbingly, I saw a sign touting something called "pork floss." I'll bet kids in Singapore have some awful memories of the summer fair.
But if Singapore has some surprisingly libertarian qualities, they still know how to maintain order here. A couple of recent news stories brought that home, including one headlined: "One-Eyed Dragon's Last Good Deed."
Triad leader Tan Chor Jin was blind in one eye -- thus the nickname, "One-Eyed Dragon." Two years ago he burst into the home of a nightclub owner who owed him money, tied up the man's family, then fired six bullets at his unfortunate debtor. This being Singapore, the fact that the club owner was killed made no difference, legally -- One-Eyed Dragon placed himself on the gallows just by firing the shots. He'd have been hung if he had only plugged a throw cushion.
Last year another prominent Singaporean ended up on the wrong side of the law. Fifty-six-year-old Tang Yee Sung, former president of the large C.K. Tang department store chain, was so desperate for a new kidney that he tried to buy one. This landed him a big fine and one day in jail. As One-Eyed Dragon prepared to meet the hangman, he left instructions that one of his kidneys should be given to Tang Yee Sung. The wheel of Singapore justice finally turned his way.
The family that canes together...
Singapore courts are also infamous for their use of caning, a punishment famously administered to young American Michael Fay, caned in 1994 for the crime of vandalism. So, I was interested to see a newspaper story about caning in Singaporean homes. Although the practice is fading, some Singapore parents still take their lead from the government and apply the rod to misbehaving children. What was particularly interesting, though, was the story of two parents who caned their son 100 times, sending the boy to hospital. Both parents were charged; the father has already been sentenced to nine months in jail. He was not caned, which is really a damn shame.
But as they say around here, it beats littering. OK, I say it.
Related Tyee stories:
- Burgess Chews on Singapore
Hey bro, don't step in the 'Tyee!' - A Global Nanny's Story
The Philippines exports caregivers, stripping its own families of mothers. Crisanta Sampang knows the cost. - 'Red Light' Idea Glows Brighter in Vancouver
Changed prostitution laws, maybe a red light district, suddenly a hot issue.




15
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alive
3 years ago
and why not?
I am all for practicality!
Having laws that are not enforceable make no sense to me.
James Burns
3 years ago
Absolutely
I'm with you alive.
So when does Campbell get caned? One lash for every wasted dollar... hmmm there might not be much left of him after the amount for the Olympics alone...
ME2
3 years ago
forgot something?
I notice that Burgess omitted any mention of Singapore's success - or lack thereof - with drugs.
Perhaps that might not fit in with his vision of Singapore's Libertarian practicalities?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Misuse_of_Drugs_Act_(Singapore)
alive
3 years ago
Singapore style?
hmmmm. caning Campbell, might be easier to just turf him out come May?
However, caning might be more effective than "community work" or house arrest, when dealing with people who commit smaller offences, come to think of it.
Trent
3 years ago
>>where five or 10 girls sit
>>where five or 10 girls sit wearing numbers for easy ordering
Steve, I'm sure you meant "women" or even "young women", not girls.
"Girls" is fine for conversational slang or literature, but in journalism it comes across as "female children".
Unless of course, you meant "female children". If that's the case then Singapore is not really amoral, it's immoral.
Bobby Peru
3 years ago
What utter garbage?
Is this what the editors of Tyee deem to be intelligent, balanced or even perceptive international journalism? I know you are not the New York Times, but an exchange student could have written more objective and informative stories about what is going on in Singapore these days. And most of all, a talented journalist would have been able to tell BC and Tyee what they might learn from a govt as talented as Singapore's.
Instead Burgess discovers Singapore's brothels and reheats decades old observations about caning and candy gum prohibition. And Burgess ought to forget about a career as a food writer- if his nowhere descriptions of all the wonderful food in Singapore is any indication of his cultural tastes. If Burgess was smart he might have set up a meeting with a govt representative or someone who could help him understand the place. But no, Burgess amply shows off he operates in the left wing shallows of BC journalism.
While Vancouver takes forever dithering over bicycle lanes on the Burrard bridge and wavering over the Olympics, Singapore- a city about the size of the lower mainland has long emerged from a swamp to being a prosperous, international city that frankly makes Vancouver look like a slum. Singapore decisively spends many times the BC Olympic budget on infrastructure. The calibre of talent employed by the Singapore govt is light years ahead of any civil servant or politician that the Liberals or the NDP could find or cultivate.
While Burgess pretentiously condescends to the Singaporeans, we in BC are mired by crime, a judicial system dominated by lightweight judges who favour criminals over law enforcement. Homeless ooze from every downtown crevice. And gang warfare is approaching 80s Miami levels. Do you know how Lee Kuan Yew dealt with his Chinese Triad and drug dealer problems? Very quickly and decisively- bullet in the head. I'm not advocating that in BC, but we have a long way to go before we put the enforcement back in law enforcement.
BC citizens and politicians could learn alot from Singapore's accomplishments and foibles. Instead, you employ a hack like Burgess who makes himself and your site look foolish and lightweight. I hope the Tyee didn't pick up Burgess' expenses in Singapore.
Look, if you want quality Asia vs. BC 'way of life thought pieces' you should invite me to submit something- for free. I spend much of my time in Asia, in the middle of one of the greatest economic transformations known to mankind. I can outwrite Burgess any time and enlighten Tyee readers with life on the other side of the Pacific.
Steve Burgess
3 years ago
A Tyee Exclusive: Bobby Perus's review of "Roman Holiday!"
Just as Bobby hoped, his Tyee writing career is off and running. Below, his review of the 1953 William Wyler classic starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck:
"What a farce. Hollywood hack Wyler misses an opportunity to examine the infrastructure and social dynamics of post-war Rome. Bike lanes? Wyler overlooks this crucial issue. Instead we get a bunch of foolishness involving princesses and Vespas, without any idea of the public transit failures that make Roman traffic so dangerous to begin with.
And by making his heroine a princess, Wyler adopts the elitist Gordon Campbell philosophy that has left this province in a state.
Someday I, Bobby Peru, will remake Roman Holiday with the emphasis where it should be: on the issue of infrastructure spending, the judicial system, and Olympic cost overruns. Then we'll see who wins an Oscar for Best Actress."
PatrickMcEvoyHalston
3 years ago
Back door, Saloon?
I don't think Steve meant to push the idea, but Salon has Open-Salon--Tyee could have Free Entry, Tyee, a place where Bobby Peru and others could contribute their own pieces, launch their own discussion threads. A fragile paper afraid of losing audience might not go that way, but it is a good way to encourage new talent. And as a plus: it's very democratic, egalitarian-good. Mind you, maybe the future is more in synergy than in dispersion--even if you do get a sense it'll lead to a shoot out at the end, because Steve is interested in joining the conversation, one gets a sense that his piece grows (and gets more interesting) through the backandforths. (And I, for one, do hope you find a way to contribute your piece, Bobby. If not here, you could try Open-Salon, and just direct readers to your site.)
Fun listening to you guys.
patrickmh
PatrickMcEvoyHalston
3 years ago
The Tyee
I wasn't suggesting that *The Tyee* was a fragile paper afraid of losing audience, btw. Rather, I was assuming the opposite.
Bobby Peru
3 years ago
Your March of Folly
Mr. Burgess: I think you have quoted another writer who goes by the moniker 'Bobby Peru' because I don't recall ever writing the passage you quoted. But, it is a pretty good parody. Really, is that the best response you can muster. Most Asians in Vancouver, who have lived or Singapore or SE Asia in general would be insulted by the stereotypes and inaccuracies and ignorance you are peddling. In fact, I'd say that many Asian immigrants living in Vancouver keep their mouth shut about suggesting improvements to BC's culture and govt because of people like you are happy wallowing in your ignorance- all of which comprises the usual lazy, BC left taglines: Gordon Campbell is the Whore of Babylon, vote NDP and all our problems are solved, big (choose one or all) oil, industry, banks are the scourge of lotusland.
Now let's be constructive. Steve, tell us something you learned on your trip that would enlighten the small minded approach we take to our problems in BC.
And Tyee editors, if you want your editorial to prosper beyond simply occupying the position of the anti-Canwest; if you want to really carve a true identity then reach out to more balanced and skilled journalists. Stop hiring your buddies down at Starbucks.
PatrickMcEvoyHalston
3 years ago
Bobby
Not that this isn't potentially constructive, but in your case, Bobby, rather than tell the Tyee who to hire or Steve how to write, I'd recommend you give your original instinct its due and show Tyee readers what you believe life is really like on the other side of the Pacific. Open Salon is a great place to publish your own writings; check it out, maybe: http://open.salon.com/cover.php
You might frame them as retorts/responses to Steve's journeys. Or make it your own adventure. (But please provide links here so that Tyee readers can follow you.) Maybe you can outwrite Steve anytime, maybe you can't, but if you think you've got something to offer the world, please do find a way to bring it to our attention.
riderji
3 years ago
agree
While the tone of the writer above is a bit over the top, I nevertheless essentially agree with many of his points. The interesting thing about Singapore (I lived there for many years and may go back), is the countries ability to combine capitalism, socialism and give it all a mix of Confucianism. We in the west may quarrel with Singapore’s methods but nevertheless we have to admit they have led to one of the most spectacular economic success stories the world has ever known. Whether they will hold up for the next generation is still up in the air. Singapore, and the rest of exporting Asia is going to need a new business model relying less on American consumption and more on Asian domestic demand. This will require entrepreneurship and the kind of economic dynamism that is more commonly associated with the United States. And the key to that dynamism can only come from creating an open society. Singapore is more than ready for a fully fledged democratic government. If the country continues to rest on its laurels and does not help to foster the kind of creative forces that are unleashed by entrepreneurship, then in my view, standards of living will start to fall. Similarly, British Columbia, from an economic background is economically backward & complacent (assumption is that the possession of commodities equals long term prosperity) and as the writer correctly points out is falling into a criminal mind-set as the black economy in drugs & violence grows ever stronger. We need to pull the plug on the black economy in BC before it’s too late. We need to start enforcing absolutely draconian measures to deal with the growing criminal element. At the same time we need to get people off the streets and into treatment programs for drugs or whatever problems they have to content.
panamajack
3 years ago
Invite you?
Dear Bobby,
I might agree with your comments over Michael's rather trite (or hastily written?) post, but your shameless self-aggrandizing -"Look, if you want quality Asia vs. BC 'way of life thought pieces' you should invite me to submit something- for free" - is ridiculous.
Give me a break. Have you submitted something to the Tyee lately?
By all means, go to the link below, write something worth reading, and send it off. Either that or just crawl away underneath your bridge:
http://thetyee.ca/About/Submissions/
panamajack
3 years ago
Invite you?
Dear Bobby,
I might agree with your comments over Steve's rather trite (or hastily written?) post, but your shameless self-aggrandizing -"Look, if you want quality Asia vs. BC 'way of life thought pieces' you should invite me to submit something- for free" - is ridiculous.
Give me a break. Have you submitted something to the Tyee lately?
By all means, go to the link below, write something worth reading, and send it off. Either that or just crawl away underneath your bridge:
http://thetyee.ca/About/Submissions/
PatrickMcEvoyHalston
3 years ago
Populism
Don't offer or submit yourself to the annointed--go straight to the people, Bobby! Try Open Salon--it's the next wave!