Last Stand for a Heavy Metal Haunt
Wendy Thirteen presides over the Cobalt Hotel bar, a world facing its doom.
Wendy Thirteen in front of a Vancouver institution. Photo by The Blackbird.
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The Subhumans (and I) Evolve
Masters of pugilistic punk reunite tonight.
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Live Fast, Die Young: Is Punk History Up in Flames?
Music for the week of June 30-July 7, by Andrew Pearson.
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Red Cat Records' "Screw Everything" Mix
Music for the week of May 5-12
It's a familiar late evening scene in front of Vancouver's Cobalt Hotel. Amid clouds of rising cigarette smoke, long-haired revellers in dark clothes puff away before disappearing into the dimly lit haunt. Some years back, the Cobalt was converted from a strip club into the city's premier live heavy metal and punk rock venue. The only remnant of its previous life is a crudely wired sign over the entrance that's supposed to glow "Girls, Girls, Girls," but instead, due to neglect, reads "..., ...., G...."
Many of the women tonight look like they walked out of a Russ Meyer film starring Bella Lugosi and Vincent Price with the Misfits scoring the soundtrack, while a lot of the men are clad in camo shorts and black T-shirts with illegible, evil-looking band logos.
On any given night, some of the city's most passionate musicians, artists and music fans can be found inside quenching their thirst for cheap booze and loud, heavy, fast and sometimes downright weird music. Upstairs is a roach-infested, dangerous slum of an SRO hotel. Downstairs, people are anything but down, unless they've had too much to drink. Powerclown is on stage, a dirty Iron Maiden tribute performing in full clown makeup. The singer talks in a faux New Jersey accent and struts around arrogantly. It's hilarious, sober or otherwise.
But the heavy-metal honeymoon at the Cobalt will soon be over. The bar's famed proprietress, Wendy Thirteen, was served with an eviction notice by landlord Paul Sahota, well-known for his string of decrepit buildings. The Cobalt is winding down in style. There's a big show scheduled for September. 26th, when the Subhumans play. The poster for that one features Wendy punching out the Monopoly man. The last show will be on September 30. Wendy says it will by like the musicians playing as the Titanic sank beneath the waves.
Vancouver's venue graveyard
Outside the bar, Wendy puffs away on a cigarette and chats up a married couple celebrating their third wedding anniversary at the bar. She turns and warns the soundman walking in of the "shitwater" spill inside, advising him to check the booth for any ooze. Landlord neglect, she says, has always led to "huge problems" running the place, although it's never made her love it any less. Underground music, she says, will always be on the fringe, never in the mainstream epitomized by the weekly cultural train wreck that is the Granville entertainment district, where scenes regularly unfold which could've easily inspired the hilariously disturbing blog and book, Hot Chicks with Douche Bags.
The eviction letter is prominently displayed on the front door for all to see, though she believes the city's soundproofing bylaws are to blame for her woes as much as are the landlords. Noise complaints from nearby new condos haven't helped either, leaving the Cobalt in an odd purgatory between Vancouver's old-brick grit and its new glass-and-steel, Olympic-branded façade.
The loss of the Cobalt, though, is more than the loss of a live music venue, more than just another name on the growing list filling Vancouver's venue graveyard. It's the loss of an institution, the loss of the city's only room dedicated to music often as loud as it is offensive. What other place in Vancouver would host a triple bill including bands named Christpuncher, Tard and Anal Impalement?
"We're driven to places like [the Cobalt] because they don't give a fuck about the music. You think Granville would let metal shows happen or punk shows? No," Wendy says. "The only time they get those is big name acts... And you never feel welcome, you know?"
Other venues that host heavy metal shows simply don't measure up to the Cobalt. Pub 340 on Cambie Street in Gastown is small, and gets stiflingly hot. The Bourbon is big, but caters to a different crowd, playing dance-pop music like Britney Spears minutes after a metal band gets off stage.
"There are alternatives, but there's no replacement for the Cobalt itself," Cobalt regular Keith Forsey says.
'This is a legitimate place'
The Cobalt Hotel. Photo by The Blackbird.
Ben Molavi, another regular and member of the band Morbid Surgeon, recalls a heavy metal show at Granville street's Plaza club, rebranded recently (not to mention pretentiously) as "The Venue."
"In between every band, they were playing the same Michael Jackson CD, over and over again," Molavi says. "They just don't know."
The show was before the King of Pop died to boot.
One notable difference between the Cobalt and other bars around town is its lack of security. It's not because it couldn't afford more security guards, like the armies of steroid-assisted gym-rats needed by other clubs around town. It just doesn't need them between Wendy herself, the one doorman, and the bar's tight-knit group of regulars.
"It's self-policing, pretty much," Wendy says.
Shiner, the long-time doorman at the bar, agrees. The loss of the Cobalt for him means he'll have to get "a real job," and for others, especially new bands, the loss will be one of opportunities.
"Guys learn how to play here," he says, in between stamping hands and taking cover charges. "This is a legitimate place where if you come and you get good here, people will take you seriously."
"You ask numerous bands around town, where did they start? They're probably going to say Wendy," he adds.
The Cobalt's tight-knit community also rallies firmly behind Wendy, he says, making her a linchpin in the music community arguably more important than any individual band or musician.
"She knows more people that come here on a personal level, it's ridiculous. If I let in for free people that tell me they 'know Wendy,' I would get five dollars a night."
'Last haven for metal heads'
Promoter Andrea Larson, who runs Infidel Entertainment, calls the Cobalt "the last haven metal heads have."
The Cobalt Hotel. Photo by The Blackbird.
"Without this bar, I don't know where I'm going to book shows anymore, and I don't know what's going to happen to the metal scene," she laments. "I'm upset about it, seriously sad about it."
The uncertainty about the fate of the city's so-called underground music scene has been somewhat relieved by the opening of the Rickshaw Theatre, which many see as a new oasis in Vancouver's bleak venue wasteland. But Larson says it reminds her too much of the Balmoral, a venue just down from the street from the Rickshaw near Main and Hastings. The venue was plagued by low turnouts simply because not many people, not even metal-heads, felt like braving the night of the living dead scene unfolding outside the place late at night.
The Rickshaw has some things going for it that the Balmoral didn't, such as its size and an all-ages component, although it's hard to imagine many parents dropping off their kids at Main and Hastings for a show. But much like the Biltmore Cabaret, save the hipster nightmare it often becomes (where the tightness of the pants is seemingly more important than the tightness of the band), if the Rickshaw keeps booking a solid mix of local and touring acts, there's no telling how successful it could be, because, as Wendy says, "Vancouver's fucked, like seriously fucked in the head," when it comes to how it treats its live venues and cultural hubs.
That hasn't stopped her though. Everyday, she counts down the days left on her eviction notice using status updates to keep up her more than 1850 Facebook friends abreast of the situation. Without a miracle, though, the Cobalt's cooked.
As the bar clears out after the end of Powerclown's second set, the first thing one sees upon exit of the Cobalt is the slick condo building across the street. At ground level is a well-lit, upscale showroom that looks like it got lost on the way to Yaletown. The sign on the window says you are looking at Futureliving. ![[Tyee]](http://thetyee.cachefly.net/ui/img/ico_fishie.png){kind=small}
MichaelT
23-09-2009
adiablo!
I outgrew that stuff but certainly cherish the urban nature of the institution.
The Modern
23-09-2009
Stale-town
Vancouver, now more than ever, has gone sterile. This may have something to do with affordability and young people fleeing, but I would suggest that the by-law enforcement and policing regime is an out-of-control bureaucracy looking to shut down any source of fun and spontaneity. Just ask anyone trying to operate a live music venue in this town. Wendy Thirteen is one example.
For arts, music and public events in general, Vancouver has always been third behind Montreal and Toronto. Now it is lagging even further behind. Given Vancouver's history of lameness (especially compared to world class cities on this continent and in Europe) people looking to party, enjoy a beverage responsibly and yes, maybe even listen and dance to live music, risk fines and are sent packing early. The C of V is unable to create a live music-friendly environment or sanction even a normal beer garden.
In addition to long-standing archaic By-Laws, I would also question the city’s handling of complaints. It is likely a small vocal minority who want to prevent and stifle artistic expression. This small number of harassing whiners should be ignored – especially when they choose to live in a city centre where spontaneity and artistic expression is so important, for any world-class city.
City By-law enforcement and regulation is absolutely stifling...and it seems City Hall comprises the final stone-faced stronghold; perhaps the only people unaware of Vancouver’s persistent “no fun” international reputation.
Why not create a live music district somewhere – an industrial area or perhaps in place of boarded-up buildings along Hastings.
It is outlandish. “Excuse me…you’ll have to stop dancing now. And please sit down with your beer.” Imagine this happening with a guest from a major international city, just looking to enjoy herself while visiting in February 2010, during the so-called “Olympic party.” If things do not change, even the “Olympic party” will be a humiliating international bust.
Hopefully this will expose Vancouver as a place where “fun comes to die”. This is what it may take for things to change in our Party Police State.
birneymak
23-09-2009
Shame
I know for a fact that this space is going to be turned into a dance club. go figure...
goosechase
23-09-2009
Rest in Peace
Sad, sad day in our city. Now we're left with two options: hipster or clubster. The Cobalt was something for vancouver to be proud of, even if you didn't like the music. The fact that it existed said something about our city as being unique, edgy, unafraid. Past tense.
speedo
23-09-2009
Do It Yourself!
Instead of whining that no one is willing to ante up the dough and the space to make a venue so you can do your thing, do it yourself! Book the Anza Club or the Croatian Culture Centre. Or go find an old garage or warehouse and rock out there. It's a hell of a lot more punk rock than waiting for someone else to enable you.
Crass
23-09-2009
Well said Modern... This
Well said Modern...
This city is run almost entirely by real estate interests (i.e. developers, etc.). And this is what we get because of it. ANYTHING that interferes with a land or property owner making $$$ has to be quashed. As a result, anything of uniqueness in Vancouver gets driven out, or goes underground. Our arts and culture then becomes separated even more from the mainstream and the polarization of our city, in wealth, trends, political perspective, etc. becomes even more entrenched.
Thanks City Hall!
wayfarer
24-09-2009
Technology
When I was a kid, I routinely went out on weekends to see DOA, Black Flag, the Subhumans, and others all playing the same room, for dirt cheap, often all ages, and did I say routinely? Not just punk, but live music of all kinds filled almost every bar, club and community centre on weekends and a good share of weekdays.
That golden era of local live music is done.
Two things have changed since:
First, the emergence of DJ music and rave culture in the 90's infected clubs and rooms like a cancer. It proved to club owners that you didn't need to hire a five-piece band under an annoying union contract (with a costly backstage rider and hotel bookings) to fill your bar and make cash.
The second factor: technological change and the replacement of records/CDs with downloads, Ipods. Hanging around record stores as a kid made me feel like I was part of a scene, that a scene even existed. How many record shops are there now? And let me tell ya, hanging around online fan sites and chat boards - just not the same. Any why would some kid who sits in his/her room playing video games and downloading Itunes all day want to bother getting out to a club for that rare live show when he/she can just download it for free? The Internet has not only changed the business of music, but it's changed the way fans interface with music.
Great live stuff will always be found. There will always be the Railway Clubs, but a lot of youngsters don't know that there was a Railway Club or Cobalt on almost every downtown street corner back in the heyday. Not anymore. And that has implications for the quality of music. Live venues have always been important places for bands of all stripes to perfect their craft. Take that away, and you diminish the quality and range of the craft.
The Modern
25-09-2009
Ahem...
Mr. Wayfarer (re: "Technology")
I agree with what you say as a general observation or a shift. However, this has occured everywhere (at a macro-level) and does not explain how some cities can have a vibrant live music scene (Portland, Montreal, etc...) while others wallow in sterility (...Vancouver). There are plenty of musicians in Vancouver with nowhere to play. The ridiculous anti-live music stance and the "be-in-bed-by-midnight" By-Law regime is the reason.
Mr. Speedo (re: "Do It Yourself")
Many people try and try to do it themselves. Unfortunately enforcing the C of V's By-Laws prohibit these (otherwise great) places from operating in a fun environment. I can't even count the times I have been somewhere, having a great time when suddenly, the lights are flicked on, I am nolonger welcome and am kicked out onto the street. Other bylaws can include: no alcohol after midnight; you must order food; you are not allowed to dance; you are not allowed to stand up with your beer. This happens in many places along Commercial, Main and Broadway etc...
As I mentioned: talk to people trying to operate live music venues in this city. Most of them tell you the crap they have to put up with is outlandish.
wayfarer
25-09-2009
Vancouver's problem
Mr. The Modern,
You are correct about the relative lack of a scene in Vancouver compared to other cities, the macro factors notwithstanding.
Archaic liquor licensing regulations, NIMBY noise complaints from increasing condo densification in the downtown core, and an overzealous past NPA council (let's see if the lefty Robertson run council can do better) focused a bit too much on public safety account for much of the problem. It certainly doesn't help matters that the Granville strip in the last decade has become a pathetic stage for drunken fight club antics after bars close.
Another possible factor might be the civic and provincial paranoia surrounding security as the Olympics approach, partly expressed via so-called civil city initiatives. The problem with this line of reasoning is that it's not fair to punish live music at the expense of DJ clubs and bars that have a reputation for being just as rowdy, if not more so than live venues. Gangsters and trouble makers seem much more attracted to clubs where they can show off their tuff guy image and street cred than they are to heavy metal concerts at decrepit hotels, save for the odd biker gangbanger.
huxtan
26-09-2009
to Wendy, Shiner and Stan
The likelihood of having a Vancouver Hall of Fame for all the bodies that make indie music possibleis miniscule . So a virtual, but much-deserved "cheers!" to Wendy and Shiner of the Cobalt, and Stan the Wonder Doorman at the Railway Club.