Hong Kong Notebook

A quarter century after my last visit to Hong Kong, I returned with my wife Wendy to discover this remains, far and away, the most exciting city on the planet. Offered here, some traveller's notes on . . .

The airport. There we were landing in Hong Kong and not wetting ourselves as we might have a few years back when landing at Kai Tak, which was a terror even for regular Hong Kong visitors. Now there is, the saints be praised, the new Hong Kong International Airport at Chek Lap Kok.

The airplane. Wendy and I left for Hong Kong on Dec. 29 and, New Year's Eve being my birthday (none of your business, dammit!) we treated ourselves to business class on Cathay Pacific which flies 17 non-stop flights a week, soon to be 21. You have to be there -- individual seats which fold back so you have a bed, a flat, comfy bed. Wendy, who is not a good sleeper on planes, and I had a full seven hour sleep and were raring to go when we arrived. It's dearer than economy but there is a huge plus in being able to use your first day touring rather than sleeping or wandering around in a daze wishing it were bed time.

The basic tour. Upon arrival, we booked one taking us through Kowloon, under the harbour to Hong Kong proper, thence to the "must see" ride up to Victoria Peak and the fantastic view of the city and the harbour below. Then it was to a Buddhist temple, which was intriguing as long as you like inhaling incense as you browse around. Then a bit of a disappointment at Aberdeen, where in past years the bay was chockablock with houseboats where the fishermen and their families lived. Back then one of the craft was a school and you'd see kids running back and forth from boat to boat as if they were playing in ordinary backyards. Unhappily the fish are gone -- sound familiar -- and so are the houseboats. The huge Jumbo Palace floating restaurant is still there though, very popular and good value. We also saw Repulse Bay -- beautiful even to eyes that live in Lions Bay -- then to the obligatory diamond factory (if you've seen one, you've seen 'em all) and finished off in the famous Stanley Market, a massive flea market where there are actually some very decent buys.

The bling. There must be more watches and rings for sale in Hong Kong than there are wrists and fingers in the entire world! But if you're offered a Rolex or Cartier watch at a fabulous price, it's a knock off. Never buy jewelry in Hong Kong unless it's from a regular jewelry store. My birthday present from Wendy? New iPod earphones, to be treasured.

Lantau Island. What a not-to-be-forgotten experience! We took a ferry from Hong Kong, about a 40-minute very scenic trip to a small fishing village called Tai O, more than three centuries old. Tai O retains most of its historical setting -- such as waterways, stilt houses and fishing boats -- and it is famous for its fishing village scenery. Traditional Chinese food like salted fish and shrimp paste -- locally produced -- can be found and the fishermen sell their wares in an open air market. The highlight of our little tour was the fisherman chasing an octopus which had escaped his pail. The fisherman won, though most of us were cheering for the octopus!

We then went to the Tian Tan Buddha, the world's tallest outdoor Buddha, completed in 1993 and located near Po Lin Monastery, which happens to serve a very good vegetarian lunch.

High wire thrills. Going back from Lantau Island was great fun -- if you don't mind heights and I do. We took the 30-minute cable car back to Kowloon and I'm told the sights were spectacular. How would I know? As a person terrified of heights, I spent the ride covering my eyes muttering that since this was my last day on earth, I would like a stiff drink please.

That night we celebrated my birthday and New Year's Eve (Wendy and I never seem to last long enough to celebrate New Year's) at the Lychee Gardens restaurant at the hotel with a grand meal and the occasional sip of bubbly.

The White Spot. We found one, accidentally mind you. It was one of five in Hong Kong, Triple O and all. Inside were marvelous old pictures of Nat Bailey and days of yore. I closed my eyes while eating my mushroom burger and could see the old and hallowed White Spot at 67th and Granville, long may she rest in peace.

Not getting run over. Remember that they drive on the left side and pedestrian lanes, unless there's a light, are meaningless, Like London, the marked lanes seem to be there to help the driver line up the pedestrian.

A noisy re-tweet. We stayed in the Metro Park Hotel in the Mongkok district of Kowloon, a good hotel with a very decent dining room at about $100 per night. While the hotel is a $4 ride from the harbour where all the swanky stores are, it's in a fabulous part of town where they have maintained most of the old ways. There's the "birds" district where little birds in cages are sold. (I must confess that as Wendy and I sat listening we thought the cries were not so much song but "birdese" for "let me the hell out of here!")

You think Vancouver's booming? Near the new airport there must be 50 apartment skyscrapers. In Kowloon and Hong Kong proper buildings are rising like mushrooms. One of the consequences of this is clearly noticeable better housing for the less well off. At the same time there are literally dozens of new condos where $1,000,000 will get you that little suite with no view. There is a lot of money in Hong Kong -- and it shows.

Some of the development is ghastly, such as the shopping centres in the old areas like Mongkok. I suppose the dollar sign means that old shops, cheek by jowl, must be replaced by glass and steel shopping malls but it's progress that blights.

One of the delights in shopping in Mongkok is the smell reflecting the general produce in the area. If I were to do it again, I would spend more time in this area. There's nothing like it in any of the many large cities I've seen.

Democracy and China. Hong Kongers are delightful and always willing to help. They don't think of themselves as Chinese and constantly refer to the "visitors" from the "mainland." The People's Republic flags are rarely seen -- mostly the Hong Kong "rose" is in evidence. They have freedom of the press as any reading of the South China Morning Post or the free Standard makes clear. Democracy is a very common word and though Hong Kong doesn't have it, what with Beijing control, chief executive Donald Tseng is always seen as pushing for more and more legislative freedom. This and his efforts and criticism of Beijing's appalling contempt for democracy and human rights are published. The Chinese are a patient people and both Beijing and Hong Kong amply demonstrate this quality always present.

Hong Kong after a quarter of a century? The place one must visit ere one "hops the twig," as my mother used to say.

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