Opinion

A Salmon Sleuth's Disturbing Find

How a marine researcher proved farmed Atlantics escape and survive in B.C. waters.

By Alexandra Morton, 20 Nov 2004, TheTyee.ca

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"You want to do what?" asked an incredulous plant manager.

"I would like to look through all the guts taken out of the Atlantic salmon, please." By now I was used to being considered odd.

He gave me a chair and a hair net and instructed the forklift operator to place each tote beside me. A wealth of information lay in those heaps of intestines and hearts and I didn't have to go chasing off after it; it was all here, immobile and available. The age and sex of the fish could be read from the condition of the gonads, the crispness of the spleen's edges reported some measure of health, the stomach gave up the fish's last meal and the adhesion of one organ to the other revealed whether that fish had been vaccinated or not. Department of Fisheries and Oceans (DFO) and industry stated that escaped farmed salmon were too domesticated to eat wild food; here was the proof one way or the other.

'Dead fish talk'

None of the fish caught in the first week during the escape in Tribune Channel had a trace of wild food in them. Some had pellets in their stomachs. One week later 2 percent had attempted to feed. While some were experimenting with alder catkins, chips of wood and styrofoam, four out of 497 fish examined had fed successfully, capturing both herring and young salmon. When the fishery opened one week later I was turned away from the processing plant. In an email labeled "dead fish talk" I had made the mistake of reporting on the wild food I had found in their stomachs.

I cursed my stupidity for letting an important avalanche of data slip away. I really wanted to know what the fish had found to eat one week later, in their third week of freedom. Finding wild food is the most crucial test any animal invading a new ecosystem must pass. One fisherman after the next declined me access to his now valuable catch: Atlantics were bought and counted as cohos, the Pacific species they most closely resembled. I did not blame or press them; coho prices were huge compared to the extremely low price of the pink salmon, their target species. Then Calvin Siider called, "You can have my whole Atlantic catch, Alex."

Not giving him time to change his mind, I darted off to rendezvous with his vessel in Knight Inlet. I felt badly for his young deckhand losing part of his wages, but the hard set of Calvin's jaw made it clear he wanted his fish to go to science and the fish were slurped into my boat. Calvin's fish completed the story. Upon release, none of the farmed salmon I looked at were eating wild fish. Seven days later, 2 percent were eating something including fish and, after 21 days of freedom, 14 percent had passed the test with shrimp, herring, sticklebacks and other unidentified animal life in their stomachs. They could survive. Stolt figured they had lost 33,000 fish. This meant 4,620 could potentially be on their way to colonizing the West Coast.

'Fairy tales'

By the second opening, officially called a "pink" opening, but dubbed the first ever Atlantic salmon opening in the Pacific, several fishermen tied one end of their nets right to the Sargeant Pass fish farm and made an interesting catch.

While the vast majority of fish were large swollen-looking creatures with enormous fat bodies accumulated around a small head, these other fish were fusiform and sleek. The masses had soft greasy flesh that could be scooped and balled like mashed potatoes; the others had firm muscular flesh. While the masses had none to very few of the normal Atlantic salmon spots, these others were more typically coloured with dark black spots over their heads and bodies. And they were almost sexually mature, while the others were years away from spawning. The males had 'kypes,' or curved lower jaws, and their gonads were heavy with sperm, while the females were ripe with large eggs.

It was my impression that these fish likely came from other farms elsewhere on this coast and were hanging around the outside of the nets, making a living by eating the pellets that drifted through the mesh. These fish were almost ready to find a river, and there were several good rivers nearby. These were the escapees most likely to spawn and they set the stage for species invasion. DFO said farmed salmon wouldn't escape. Then when fishermen began catching them, they said they couldn't eat wild food. Next they prophesized they would not spawn. Then when juvenile Atlantics were found in the rivers, they said, "Oh well none of this matters anyway, they won't establish." Why would anyone but a fool keep believing these fairy tales? I suspect feral Atlantic salmon cluster outside many a farm and suspect DFO agrees because they refuse to task a gill-netter to go look.

Knee-deep in Atlantics

Some days I returned to my float with so many Atlantic salmon in my boat I was wading knee-deep through them. I looked like a commercial boat after a night of gill netting, though my catch was perverted: Atlantic salmon pulled from Pacific waters. One evening I was so exhausted from collecting, measuring, weighing, gutting, preserving stomach contents, and taking DNA, bacterial swabs, scale samples and pictures that I could not bring myself to deal with the carcasses. As I dragged myself up the ramp, a fleeting thought crossed my mind, "What about the raccoons?" I have a coon problem. A family of these masked bandits climbs into my boat nightly and eats everything soft enough to bite, including my daughter's crayons. I knew the next morning there would be farmed fish scattered across my float, but I was simply too tired to do anything about it.

The next morning, I strode down to the dock, rubber gloves up to my elbows ready for clean-up detail, but to my surprise there were no fish on the deck. I looked at the situation closely. One Atlantic salmon had been pulled half-way out of the tote and dropped. Its head bore the puncture wounds of a raccoon's bite, but in very short order this raccoon must have decided this fish was not food.

I sat crouched by that fish for a long time in disbelief. "It must be the smell of them," I thought, for I was now very familiar with their smell and it in no way resembled that of wild fish. Farmed fish have a cloying odour closely resembling the pellets they eat; a smell which eventually caused me to burn some clothing. Finally, I had a good laugh and headed back, gasping for air. "My" coons preferred crayons to farmed salmon. What would the restaurant crowd think of that?

Alexandra Morton is co-founder of Raincoast Research Society and the Broughton Archipelago Stewardship Alliance.  This is excerpted from her essay in A Stain Upon The Sea: West Coast Salmon Farming, published by Harbour Publishing.

Interested in wading into the farmed salmon / wild salmon debate?  Participate in The Tyee's salmon haiku duel and enter to win one of 40 fishy prizes!  [Tyee]

33  Comments:

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  • allan (not verified)

    7 years ago

    My daughter serves in a fairly high end dining facility that draws primarily well-healed non-BC tourists. Unfortunately the business buys farmed salmon because it can be bought pretty much any time of the year.( That's what they say.) If asked by diners about the "fresh salmon" she always recommends something else and does let them know the salmon isn't "wild fresh salmon". Most people, even if they come from land-locked countries seem to understand the difference immediately. Alexandra, you are providing very important research in difficult surroundings and I want to thank you for doing the work federal fisheries won't do. Here, again, as in so many cases, federal agencies are actually working against the public's interest and attempting to prop up the private sector investments.

  • Sunny Samson (not verified)

    7 years ago

    Watch for this slogan from the industrial salmon farm industry -- "farm fresh salmon"

    Next, they'll be calling it "natural."

    Now, slightly off-topic, but not for many of us here in BC -- so sad, so shocked to hear David Grierson died on the weekend. Truly one of the good ones. Just wanted to spread the word beyond Vancouver Island. I can't imagine what weekday mornings will be like without him. The world can ill afford to lose someone of his calibre so early in his game.

  • Chris H (not verified)

    7 years ago

    Unfortunately, in economic terms, the wild salmon fishery is not that big. The farmed fish industry, on the other hand, has the potential to be a huge cash cow. That is why politicians do not want to take an indepth look at the issue. I believe that we are on the way to no wild salmon fishery in BC. I pray that the species lives on.

  • anonymous (not verified)

    7 years ago

    "Guide to Verse Forms" at http://www.noggs.dsl.pipex.com/vf/ "Omnificent English Dictionary in Limerick Form" at http://www-b.oedilf.com/db/Lim.php?

  • anonymous (not verified)

    7 years ago

    Salmon on my plate,/Fresh from a fac-to-ry farm,/No thank you, waiter.

  • anonymous (not verified)

    7 years ago

    "Fish Farms" (with a list of restaurants serving only wild fish) at http://www.ubcic.bc.ca/fishfarms.htm ~~~ People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) at http://www.peta.org/

  • anonymous (not verified)

    7 years ago

    Salmon on my plate,/Fresh from a fac-to-ry farm./No, thank you, waiter. (correction)

  • Michelle Hoar - Tyee business director (not verified)

    7 years ago

    Hey there anonymous - great haiku, but if you want to enter, please send it to

    ! Otherwise we have no way of getting back to you if happened to win.

  • Ed Kidder (not verified)

    7 years ago

    Anyone who would eat a farmed Atlantic salmon would kiss a politician. Where? Your choice! You have no taste anyway!

  • stats check (not verified)

    7 years ago

    Alexandra, I think it's amazing that only 2% even ATTEMPTED to feed. Let alone that only 0.8% managed to successfully feed. This leads to the obvious question. What does your sample actually represent? Perhaps half (70%?, 90%?) of the escapes already died becasue they didn't feed. Thus the 14% implies that only 2310 (1386?, 462?) fish could possibly survive to reproduce. What was your sample size anyway?

  • Sam (not verified)

    7 years ago

    Ecotrust published an issue of SectionZ about the benefits of wild salmon and the dangers of farmed salmon. We can send anyone wanting to redistribute them (fishers, advocates, citizens) up to 100 SectionZ for just the cost of shipping. Check it out online at http://www.sectionz.info/Issue_1/ We also sell Salmon Nation t-shirts ;).

  • Tony Eberts (not verified)

    7 years ago

    While it's true that the wild salmon commercial fishery has shrunk in recent years, it is still far more valuable than the netcage farm industry. What's more, the large and valuable sports fishery depends entirely on wild fish. Those miraculous salmon runs are a vital part of our heritage and culture and a measure of our quality of life. It has been said that our governments tend to know the "bottom line" of everything, and the value of nothing.

  • Burgess (not verified)

    7 years ago

    To get right to the basics the problem we, the public, are having with the wild salmon question is political screwing around with the Unemployment Insurance Fund. The original mandate for the fund is lost and gone. Lose your job through no fault of your own and you get benefits to the politicos throwing money at constituents for reelection purposes and subverting the fund for political gain. The politicians just could not keep their hands off the money. The tax deduction is now a cash cow for Ottawa to play with as it sees fit. Too much being paid out to fishermen? Ruin the fisheries on both coasts and drive the fishermen from the waters. Cheaper to 'lease' out the fisheries to offshore draggers, ie the Poles and Russians on the West Coast and to encourage fish farms with their minimum wages and minimum employees. The Eastern Cod fishery was lost for one reason only - the Federal Government paid off big business at the price of the inshore fishery, which employed the most fishermen. Big business whined about the UIC fund and Ottawa caved to business demands. The quickest way to ruin the cod fishery was to let the scallop draggers scoop during cod spawning season, and it worked. Blame the seals, inshore fishermen, foreign fishermen, etc. but not DFO policies MANDATED by Ottawa politicians. Now we have the West Coast Salmon stocks being depleted by Ottawa's policies in conivance with the BC Liberals. Can you say 'campaign donations' and 'political payoffs?' Yes we will have small stocks of wild salmon as the apologists keep saying but we may never see the historic stocks that enriched and fed the natives and first settlers of this Province. Why do our wild salmon stocks have to be canned in Alaska? For every farmed salmon employee we have seen the loss of a dozen or so jobs in the wild fishery. The present government in our Province has mandated that BCHydro can no longer construct hydro generating facilities - WHY? When the salmon are no longer in the Fraser River can the dams be far behind? Who really stands to gain from the daming? Not the residents of BC but the power barons of Howe Street. Too bad we are about to repeat the mistakes of California and Ontario, both jurisdictions that have warned us against privatization. We lose our fish which have been in the rivers forever because of political wheeling and dealing.

  • David (not verified)

    7 years ago

    Alexandra - are aware of any reproducing wild stocks of Atlantic Salmon on the west coast? That is to say, can you name any rivers that have returning runs of Atlantic Salmon? I think our west coast fisheries are the most abused resource and they need proper conservation.

  • anne cameron (not verified)

    7 years ago

    I've been fighting the floating feed lots for fifteen years, and have seen BOTH the NDP and the current Fiberals fuck around with wild fisheries in ways which are tantamount to sin. Taking 500 to 800 metric tonnes of krill out of the St. of Georgia has so impacted the herring that this year they were all too small , the fleet was sent over here to, of course, overfish the resource on this side of the Island..krill are the basic food for all the fish which are in turn eaten by salmon...they will starve the wild fishery out of the St of Georgia...clear the way for more feed lots...now they're trying the same foolishness near Saltspring, with black cod... Alexandra, I am sure you often feel you are being gnawed to death by toothless newts as the nit-pickers and bullshitters try to attack your work. Please know, you have provided wonderful statistical ammunition to those of us who are trying to make these pirates move their "farms" to properly set up solid sided tanks on shore...if "farming" is such a great thing, if it really is even half what they say then they can FARM and take care of the effluent..it would make great commercial fertilizer if it were sterilized..and if anybody wanted to put hormone enriched anti-biotic riddled fish crap on their fields. Hang in there, woman. "Let them eat crayons"......

  • kootney (not verified)

    7 years ago

    I'm wondering if the 7 1/2 lb. salmon Campbell owes McGuinty on losing the Grey cup bet is farmed or wild. I'm putting all my money on farmed.

  • Burgess (not verified)

    7 years ago

    'He'did say 'wild salmon' but then he is also a liar.

  • brutal bobby T (not verified)

    7 years ago

    Kudos to Morton! For years, she has been exposing the 'salmon farming' industry for exactly what it is---an abomination on every level. Include me as one of the conspiracy theorists who believe that the DFO would like nothing more than the extinction of wild stocks on the West Coast --it would make their job so much easier without those pesky fishermen and their uncomfortable questions.

  • anne cameron (not verified)

    7 years ago

    When salmon "farming" was first touted in B.C. the salmon feed lot people were quoting "the norwegian experience". It didn't take much research to find out they had come here because Norway was bringing in regulations and restrictions which made feed lot production more difficult and more expensive. They came here to do what they were no longer allowed to do over there. Since then EVERY government has kissed their asses. Yes, we have restrictions, regulations and no, they don't get enforced. The FIberals even GAVE BACK the fines which had been imposed on this industry. The feed lot apologists prattle on about jobs , jobs..well, there aren't many and they're all minimum wage and the working conditions are terrible... and the feed lot industry is playing one desperate small town against another, closing plants here and opening them in places where they get tax benefits...then blaming the environmentalists for the job losses in communities which didn't give tax incentives... I farmed for years. You would hardly believe how nit-picky the inspectors were when it came to cow shit.. where the cow could dump, where I could store it...how long I had to store it before I could spread it on my hay field...but the feed lots can just let it fall where it does, in the ocean, spreading all manner of antibiotic, hormone and disease...if they want to farm, let them FARM. I had to BUY my land, let them buy land, too. I had to build my barn on MY land..let them put their solid sided tanks on land they bought...I had to do proper manure treatment, fine, let them do it, too. And if they won't FARM the way farmers farm, then stop calling them fish farms and call them what they are. Feed lots. Stinking, polluting, disease spreading blights which are going to absolutely wreck what was once a very fertile and productive coast. YES DFO is willing to get rid of fishers and their goddam unions and their goddam knowledge of the coast, the tides, the weather, the conditions, the health and the numbers of every kind of fish. Then they can all get high-paying jobs in the feedlot industry.

  • KWL (not verified)

    7 years ago

    Aquaculture only accounts for approx. 1900 jobs in BC, compared to 5400 fishing jobs. The whole industry is a joke. The fish sucks, I don't even consider it real salmon. No one should buy it, stores should stop selling it and restaurants shouldn't even put it on their menu.

  • brian (not verified)

    7 years ago

    the saddest comment is that escaped farm salmon are being included in the "wild salmon" catch, and if the escaped farm salmon are feeding on wild resources the distinctive taste difference will not be so pronounced... Will we be able to tell the difference (in a restaurant) between wild pacific and escaped atlantic salmon in two or three years?

  • anonymous (not verified)

    7 years ago

  • anonymous (not verified)

    7 years ago

    "Straight.com: Coastlines" ("Human Impact Threatens Sakinaw Sockeye") at http://www.straight.com/content.cfm?id=6701

  • CF (not verified)

    7 years ago

    It all boils down to an old saying: "The love of money is the root of all evil" If we can't get it right with valueing and maintaining our precious gift of wild salmon, I sadly don't have much hope for us as a species long term.

  • Ross (not verified)

    7 years ago

    I suggest those of you who mistakenly believe that salmon farms are the cause of the downturn in the wild salmon stocks take a look at the data; wild salmon stocks have been in a general decline in BC since the early 1970's. Salmon farming started in @ 1985. Maybe you should start barking up a different tree. As well, in the years since salmon farms have been in the Broughton area, there have also been some of the best pink salmon returns on record; check out www.farmfreshsalmon.org for details. Of course, the data is from the DFO, so many of you will think it is a conspiracy.

  • Phil (not verified)

    7 years ago

    On the topic of fish quality, here's my ranking: sockeye, coho, farmed Atlantic, chinook, pink, and lastly chum. Steelhead aren't on my list as they are endangered. I have eaten all of them. People that diss farmed Atlantics should consider that they are overwhelmingly preferred by the people that buy salmon. According to the Environmental Working Group people who prefer the taste of Pacific salmon are in the minority, with 60% of salmon consumed being Atlantic.

  • Shawn (not verified)

    7 years ago

    Que bono? Who benefits from the farm salmon controversy? Alexandra Morton, Suzuki and the Alaskans. The enviros get big money from US groups which is directed towards them by the Alaskans who are trying to attack the competition- BC farmed salmon. Heres the joke- the Alaskans are the worst kind of salmon farmers there is- they grow their fish in cages on medication and let them all go to interbreed and compete with the wild. Alexandra and Suzuki endorse this because the Alaskans pay their bills. Suzuki supporting Alaskan fishfarming as responsible makes as much sennse as trying to save the wild salmon by refusing to eat farmed!!! Ah well we will all look back on this and laugh one day when our grandkids ask: "why didn't you save the wild salmon?" and we can say "We did try! It just turned out that eating them all wasn't such a great idea"

  • Shane (not verified)

    7 years ago

    "Que bono?" I believe that's Spanish for "what bond?" The Latin phrase for "who benefits" is "cui bono." On the other side of the debate, Ms Morton used the Dylanism "prophesized" instead of "prophesied." Forty years ago my dad's business partner used to bring us wild Atlantic salmon, and it was wonderful, firm flesh. The farmed stuff is bland mush.

  • wow! (not verified)

    7 years ago

    Found this article on this story today... A Stain Upon The Science

  • anonymous (not verified)

    7 years ago

    “Opponents Of Proposed Sablefish Farms Charge That Disease And Parasites Will Devastate Wild Stocks. Sound Familiar?” at http://www.straight.com/content.cfm?id=7070

  • anonymous (not verified)

    7 years ago

    “The Truth About The Science Of Fish Lice” at http://www.straight.com/content.cfm?id=7071

  • Phil (not verified)

    7 years ago

    GREAT NEWS - PINK SALMON STOCKS REBOUND IN BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGO "Better than expected pink salmon returns – pleasing Kwakiutl fishermen December 10, 2004 Port McNeill, British Columbia, 10 December 2004 - The Kwakiutl Territorial Fisheries Commission (KTFC) has received the Department of Fisheries and Oceans update reporting on pink returns in the Broughton and was pleased to note the strong returns for 2004. Even year returns are generally strong but this year's numbers are a significant improvement over the low brood returns of 2002 particularly in the Kakweiken and Glendale systems. Survival of pink salmon originating from the 2002 brood was extremely high, ranging from approximately a two-fold increase in the Wakeman streams to almost a 37 fold increase in the Glendale systems. Combined returns to date are slightly better than average. “We are very pleased to see a stronger than expected return of pink salmon in the Broughton - an area that has been the focus of much attention,” said Fred Glendale, a member of the KTFC board of directors. 'While we need to continue to closely monitor this area and continue to work to sustain wild salmon populations we are relieved to see this year's numbers and we’re confident that with the help of our partners in our newly formed Coastal Alliance for Wild Salmon (CAWS) we will significantly improve the wild salmon habitat resulting in even greater returns in the future years.' Methods of analysis were maintained from previous years to ensure a consistent report. In most cases for the mainland inlet systems, numbers of returns (known as escapement estimates) are collected through aerial and foot inspections. The key indicator streams used to determine the number of returning pinks include the Glendale, Kakweiken, Ahnuhati and the clear tributaries on the Kingcome (Atlazi and Clear) and Wakeman (Atway and Wahpeeto) Rivers. The KTFC assisted the federal Department of Fisheries and Oceans by providing stream inspection information in the area." Source: KTFC (Kwakiutl Territorial Fisheries Commission)

  • llb (not verified)

    7 years ago

    A Stain Upon The Science On Nov. 21st The Tyee published an excerpt by Alexandra Morton of an essay she had published in A Stain Upon The Sea: West Coast Salmon Farming, a book published by Harbour Publishing. In this essay, Ms. Morton claims to have proven that escaped farmed Atlantic salmon can survive in BC waters. But her conclusions are a little fishy. source:http://canstats.org/readdetail.asp?id=719

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