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Orwell Lives in Poland
When Americans want to put their missiles in your town, should you be happy or sad?
Former fighter pilot Boguslaw Nowak: Not funny.
Gallery: Orwell Lives in Poland »
The public library of the Polish provincial town of Slupsk is located in a former 13th century church of St. Nicholas. It was destroyed several times in different armed conflicts and always rebuilt on the same spot. Its massive, red brick walls promised a cool interior, an attractive prospect in a very hot summer day in June 2008. When I walked into the vestibule, I found that somebody set there a little commemorative exhibition to George Orwell featuring his pictures, drawings and early editions of his books in several languages.
One of Orwell's highlighted quotes said: "Every war when it comes, or before it comes, is represented not as a war but as an act of self-defense against a homicidal maniac."
By the door, a stack of local magazines provided ironic context to the exhibit. Their covers showed hundreds of locals with open umbrellas and a banner saying: "Away with the shield. If not for your politics we would be fine with just umbrellas."
They were protesting against the building of an American missile base at the outskirts of Slupsk, one link in a chain of "shields" the administration of President George W. Bush sought to erect in a supposed effort to protect Europe and the U.S. from a nuclear attack by Iran.
Now, even this early into the Obama era, Washington seems receptive to voices of protest against the missile shield plan. Voices that include not just umbrella toting Polish townsfolk, but also the leader of Russia, Vladimir Putin, who had threatened to retaliate against the missile shield project by deploying his own nuclear-capable missiles near the Polish border. For the moment, at least, Russia and the United States are speaking in calm and even conciliatory tones as they decide where to aim their weapons of mass destruction.
Offered here, then, are a few snapshots from a recent visit to a town caught between troubled empires that seem to be running out of money. Empires fueled, as always, by fear of enemies, real or imagined. Empires now struggling to maintain the Orwellian dream of technological superiority purchased by unlimited wealth.
Under the bridge
About two hundred metres from the library, I stumbled upon Marian Grodzinski, an obviously unemployed man in his forties. He was drinking beer, hiding under the bridge spanning the small river Slupia. He said that he has chosen this spot to avoid the police surveillance cameras located at the adjoining crossroad and numerous other locations around the town. He asked me for a donation for his next beer. In return, I asked if he believed in the Persian nuclear menace. He shrugged. "I think they [Americans] are in reality more worried about the Pakistanis." I raised another issue that I thought should interest him. Would in his opinion the missile base construction help Slupsk's economy? Grodzinski shrugged again: "I think even the local hookers would be disappointed."
Bulldozers vs. history
Target Slupsk
For a map locating Slupsk, Poland, click here.
Slupsk, with the population of about 100,000, is one of main towns of Pomerania, a historical region covering the south coast of the Baltic Sea. In the Middle Ages, Pomerania comprised several small domains populated by folks speaking languages of the Western Slavic family. It was gradually absorbed into the German realm and, by the 18th century, almost completely Germanized. That process was rapidly reversed in the 1940s and '50s, following the changes in European borders after Germany's defeat in World War II.
In Slupsk's main square, there is a billboard featuring a historic photograph of the same spot. Of the houses in the picture, only two still exist. The rest was burned in 1945 by marauding units of the Soviet army. Under that billboard, I met a young history professor of the local university, Kacper Pencarski. He told me that one of the early post-war initiatives of the Polish-communist administration was to bulldoze the Slupsk's cemetery in order to root out reminders of the German historical presence.
Pencarski often journeys through the region in pursuit of scattered documents and books of possible historical value. I asked to join him on a trip to the small village of Lupawa, some 15 kilometres east of Slupsk, past the planned American base. Next morning, we went to see an old farmer, Stanislaw Grodzien, who was rumored to be using some old books for fuel in his stove.
Memories of an old farmer
When we got out of the car, Grodzien was expecting us at the gate in the low wooden fence in front of his white painted house. His hunting dog, a young dachshund, darted through the gate and ran circles around our small group. From the garden shack behind the house, Grodzien dragged out several tattered suitcases and boxes filled with water-damaged German books and documents. When Pencarski began sorting through the materials, Grodzien sat in a wobbly chair under a cherry tree. Without much prompting, he told us stories about the war, about his late wife and about the village.
Grodzien was 15 when his family relocated to Pomerania from eastern Poland, in 1947. They became neighbours with two German women, Elfrida Reddel and her mother. He married Elfrida in 1950. Together they witnessed the expulsion of ethnic Germans that lasted until the late 1950s. Grodzen recalled the story he learned from his German mother-in-law: In 1945, sometime after the Wehrmaht units withdrew to the west, a passing Soviet patrol stopped a woman carrying food to her husband, a German officer, hiding in a gully on his own farm in Lupawa. The officer, his wife and their daughter were shot dead by the patrol's commander. All three are buried in an unmarked grave in the garden they used to tend.
Most of the current residents of Slupsk and the whole Polish Pomerania have their roots in pre-World War II eastern Poland, somewhere in what is now Ukraine and Belarus. During the war, their homeland changed hands a number of times: from Polish to Soviet, then to German, and back to Soviet. Their families endured persecution and slave labor and many were killed for reasons like having secondary education. The survivors were given the choice of becoming citizens of the Soviet Union or relocating west, to settle on former German territories. Most decided to move.
A knight and a fighter
Such was the family story of another faculty member of the local university, a medievalist, Boguslaw Nowak. I met him in one of Slupsk's public parks, where he practiced swordplay with friends from the Knights' Brotherhood. He was trying on a helmet weighing about 5 kilograms, which he told me would cost the actual knight a small village to obtain. Nowak's PhD thesis is on the genealogy of medieval knights.
Before starting a career as a historian, Nowak served for 12 years as a fighter pilot in the Slupsk Fighter Regiment, at that time an important element of the Warsaw Pact air forces. In the 1980s, Nowak and his partner's jets were scrambled at times when a NATO AWACS plane, flying over the Baltic, infringed on Polish territorial waters. At the same time, farther east, Russians would activate their ground-to-air missile-guiding radars. It is in the nature of the game, for each move there is a countermove. Nowak was convinced that the American military installation at Slupsk would prompt Russians to program a bunch of nuclear-tipped cruise missiles with the coordinates of his hometown.
I recalled a short animation that somebody posted on YouTube. The Polish president Kaczynski, a strong proponent of the missile shield, explains how the salvo of ballistic missiles from "China or some other Mongolia" heading for the U.S. is intercepted over Poland. You see, America is safe, says Kaczynski. The next volley of missiles eradicates Poland from the yellow tinted map of Europe. You see, America is still safe, concludes the Polish president.
Nowak didn't laugh. But he found a nuclear attack on Europe or U.S. by Mongolia about as likely as one by Iran.
Lessons from history
Nowak noticed that peculiar political phraseology, often used today in relation to Iran, was used against Poland already in the Middle Ages. In 1410, in a daylong battle at Grunwald, the combined Polish-Lithuanian forces routed heavily armored cavalry of a crusading military order of Teutonic Knights. The order's Grand Master Ulrich von Jungingen was killed in that battle. His successor, Heinrich von Plauen the Elder, in the letter to Western monarchs, described the Battle of Grunwald as a war against the "forces of evil."
Nowak pointed out that, particularly among younger people in Pomerania, there is more enthusiasm for learning from history than for replaying it, but then, there is no mechanism for the locals to have any say in these matters, except for parading with their umbrellas on a clear day, like they did during the recent manifestation. As the Polish president stated in his reply, there won't be any referendums on matters of national security.
Under the Zeppelin
The last historical anecdote Nowak told me that day was about Zeppelins. During World War I, Germans build in the proximity of Slupsk an airstrip equipped to handle Zeppelins. From there, the giant airships went on bombing raids and intelligence missions over continental Europe. In the reversal of the sailing ships crow's nest concept, the observers were sometimes lowered on cables in a basket to direct the bombing through the clouds. These early Zeppelins were notoriously unstable and one of them fell from the high heavens into the pine forest near Slupsk. Mushroom pickers occasionally express surprise, stumbling on a commemorative monument to the victims of this catastrophe partially sunken in the sandy earth in the middle of nowhere.
I had a brief vision of the town of Slupsk, with all its residents and landmarks, dangling on a cable under the belly of an enormous Zeppelin obscured by dark clouds, its course set by the strangers bound to the eternal crusade against the forces of evil of their preference.
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The everyday life of an Afghan woman, in pictures.




14
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zalm
3 years ago
A schizophrenic society?
Poland still has not come out of its 20th Century dark ages. The collapse of the Austro-Hungarian empire gave hope that Poland would rejoin the nations of the world in a burst of enthusiasm, commerce and scientific achievement. Close ties with Prussia were supposed to enable that, but no such ended up occurring. Mixes of settlers in Polish lowlands south of Gdansk for some four hundred years had never assimilated, nor contributed to the social milieu of the country, so it was easy for Prussia, and later Germany, to annex this part of the country, the northern breadbasket of the nation as it always thought of itself as separate.
The reversion to Polish land from the end of the Second World War through Communist times was no better handled. Poles had little chance of advancement in their own country, which was still ruled by opportunistic descendants of German invaders and later Russian invaders. None of this is spoken aloud - it remains in family closets all over the nation as people seek work elsewhere in Europe and remit not only needed wealth but social problems back home where there is already a surfeit.
Some of my German in-laws come from this area - closer to Gdansk actually - and maintain contact with the Polish residents (or rather, internal deportees, as Grabowski mentions in his article) who kicked them out after the war. Despite many attempts to form partnerships, there is always this awful gulf between residents and the involuntary emigres. There is no cultural memory in the region, though there is a common bond of past troubles. It's not for lack of wealth - many of the farms and industries in the region are wealthier and more efficient than in many places in the world including North America, - nor is it from lack of effort. But the inequality of opportunity lands unevenly on many, and weighs them down with troubles beyond their resilience.
I see Poland as the poor man of Europe for another twenty years, before these ghosts are expunged. If kicking the bases out is one way of doing it, power to the Poles. I suspect this will not lead to any such enlightenment, however. And there are, of course, many other reasons not to have the bases there, too. Thanks for the article, Christopher.
jimmy_laroux
3 years ago
Great article!
Haha! Grodzinski for President!
G West
3 years ago
Good stuff
have any of you read Norman Davies History of Poland, the one he calls 'God's Playground'?
Utterly fascinating country. Unbelievable people.
ME2
3 years ago
"Orwell lives in Poland"??
Perhaps, but the lead-in to the story suggests a different take on it than Grabowski makes :
"Empires fueled, as always, by fear of enemies, real or imagined."
The various Eastern European countries, Poland included, have forever been the pawns sacrificed or won as the armies of larger Empires have swept back and forth across them, including various periods of foreign occupation. The bloodshed they have experienced in the process beggars the imagination.
Add to that the unending internal intrigue as powerful outside interests such as the US, Russia, and the EEU today seek to advance their own political and economic goals with no regard for the long-term interests of these buffer states.
I am shamed as our Western nations readily exploit latent political, racial, ethnic and religious dfferences - fanning them into overt hatreds - as they play their geopolitical games.
Orwell had the insight to recognise and describe a process that had been around long before he came upon the scene. We, with the help of mass media, have only improved upon those techniques.
I would suggest, then, that if the Poles exhibit an Orwellian bent, their cynicism, born of long experence, makes them more likely to cope with it than ourselves. Proof of that can be seen with our flag-waving Southern neighbours and our dog-like following in their footsteps.
kris
3 years ago
Nothing schizophrenic in speaking out loud against Cold War II
Zalm: Thanks for your comments. I am afraid you missed the point, though. I don’t think Poles are more or less schizophrenic than other Europeans. What’s schizophrenic or perhaps just Orwellian, is that these smaller nations in Central and Eastern Europe have always had to put up with the imperial hubris.
As for being the poor man of Europe, I don’t think it is true at all. You may like to check on the recent economic situation of Iceland, Hungary and several other European countries.
As for the equality of opportunities, I think Poles are doing pretty well in that department. Particularly, when taking the recent American statistics as a benchmark.
All in all, I met in Slupsk quite normal folks by any definition. Nothing schizophrenic in marrying a member of an enemy nation, like Grudzien did. Nothing wrong with preserving the true history as Pencarski does. And nothing unhealthy with seeing through the imperial propaganda, like Grodzinski under the bridge or Chrulska at the Cafe.
Christopher
kris
3 years ago
Zalm
I’ve read some other threads and I think that you deserve something better than my response directly above. Perhaps our differences were exaggerated unnecessarily by the choice of aggressive titles for the article and for your comment.
Empires, as a concept, are natural enemies of regions like Pomerania, where people are bound by birth, dialect, local culture and common experience, without excessive nationalism. Regionalism is opposite to homogeneity and makes populations less predictable and less controllable. Empires prefer homogeneity.
On the surface, empires versus regions, does not look like an even match. But in evolutionary perspective, think about dinosaurs versus mammals, regions and local communities stand a good chance due to their greater adaptability. Dinosaurs, on the other hand, are slow to evolve and sometimes actually devolve to some extend.
In the past, Mongolian hordes, for instance, seemed to have some principles against killing children, which recently, sadly, have been abandoned in favour of “precision” bombing. Empires are primeval beasts, of sorts, that have a doctrine instead of a brain.
Regions and communities, people, find astonishing ways to regenerate themselves as soon as the bombing stops and the imperial attention moves to some other spot. In the middle of nowhere in central Cambodia, I stopped two men on a moped, to ask for directions by way of showing them a small card somebody had written for me. The man in the front seat, King Sihanouk’s supporter, held the handlebar. He had no legs. He had walked into some minefield. The man in the back seat, former Khmer Rouge, operated the pedals. He had no hands. He had an accident planting a minefield.
Humanity is facing most serious challenges. The end result is by no means certain. In this struggle, I pin my hopes on the mammals, allegorically speaking. And these would be the small regions like Pomerania. And on a more basic level: an old farmer in a village of Lupawa, a young bartender in Slupsk and two amputees on a moped in Cambodia. To name just four.
David Beers
3 years ago
Let's talk titles
Zalm and ME2, I regret that the title of the piece, which is mine, didn't convey to you what I had intended. But it gives us a good chance to talk about what goes on in one's mind when faced with the challenge of fashioning a headline for a wonderful piece such as this.
By saying Orwell 'lives' in Poland I didn't mean to imply that a direct analogy for his fictional world IS Poland.
Rather, I meant that Orwell himself, though dead, 'lives' in Poland through the clarity of the perceptions of the people Chris encountered. Caught between two powerful empires producing propaganda to justify their dangerous strategies, the Poles Chris encountered reflected Orwell's clear-eyed discernment of the lies and their own vulnerability to empires' ambitions.
Orwell 'lives' as well in the presence of his quoted material in the museum Chris visits. The Poles are mindful of Orwell. His views live on.
Headlines are like haikus -- when not attempting to be explicit, they are a gesture meant to ready the mind for what follows.
Chris's original headline was 'Traveling with Orwell in Poland'. Perhaps that would have been better, in retrospect.
Cheers, and thanks for the thoughtful engagement with this Tyee offering.
southdeltawalker
3 years ago
Haikus....
Loved the comment:
"Headlines are like haikus".
Never thought about a headline like that before and it makes perfect sense- a "gesture".
Thanks David.
zalm
3 years ago
Whups
I guess I have to pay more attention every day. I don't mean to call attention to my posts by my absence.
David, you're right - I didn't understand the headline, but as with so many things, that's my fault, not any one else's. I'm not that well-read, so when the message didn't fit into my recollections of 1984 or Animal Farm, I passed on by. Kris gave a great slice of life about one issue recently arisen in Poland and the thoughts of the people that wrestle with it. Much appreciated. It gave me a lot of food for thought as I attempted to fit it into what I'd learned of the Poles during my ten days there in 2005.
Nonetheless, I tried to impart a few things I learned about the Poles during my stay there in Barcice, Sztum, Malbork & Elblag that might impact on what I saw as the 'ambivalence' in the Poles that Kris wrote about. I tried to do it, as I often do, from the perspective of more than a hundred (and sometimes up to a thousand) years of history - something I am not accustomed to doing at home, but since I began travelling so much in the past couple of decades, I see the lessons of history all around me. In nearly every other place in the world, it's almost impossible not to do.
And despite a great amount of hospitality, almost Slavic in its effusiveness, I sensed a disappointment in the way the world has turned out for Poland. But my inquiries into it were stonewalled. Nobody was willing to talk about what they expected would be different, except in the grossest way, and nobody would identify what stopped Poland from achieving the greatness that was its potential for more than three hundred years. And after a while, I put two and two together - in most cases, the people I spoke to didn't answer because they didn't know.
Few Poles in the area of old Prussia have grown up in their traditional villages. Most live other than where their grandparents were born, and they have as little connection to them as you'd expect. None of the Poles in the Barcice region I met knew that most of the lowland farms behind the drained dykes were originally Swedish Lutherans who had been there since the Thirty Years' war, or Mennonites who fled persecution but were never permitted to join their confreres in Gdansk either, and so continued up the Vistula from the late 1600s to the early 1900s. None knew about the Jehovah's Witnesses who arrived in the 1870s or the small colony of Hugenots who reached Poland when it was a welcoming society to religious dissidents in the 16-1700s.
(cont'd)
zalm
3 years ago
And...
Their gravesites don't exist any longer, but for those who have institutional or religious memory, their stories live on. My in-laws help preserve that memory together with one family of good Polish friends who live in the district. Doubtless others do as well, but when you ask locals about it, they know nothing. But they can tell you how nice Lodz or Katowice or Lublin was....
...And that should tell you something about the lack of historical memory in a district, a province or a nation. Poland is not the only place I've experienced that - it's present to a great extent in the Balkans and Hungary too, in which I have travelled a bit in recent years.
I firmly support Poles in making the right decision about a nuclear umbrella, and Kris's article goes a long way toward demonstrating that Poles recognize the bankruptcy of all the arguments for the umbrella. But I wanted to point out that the people who are making those decisions have few resources to go on - the economic ties bind them to powers and superpowers around them for their daily bread; their political aims, which lie in keeping their heads down and not rocking the boat; there is simply no historical memory to rely upon and pass down when confronting "new" situations like this.
I pity Poland for this. And that's why I see them at the effect of decisions made elsewhere at their expense for at least the next twenty years.
I'm not a good writer nor did I have the benefit of sufficient reflection before I commented, so perhaps my comment came across as harsh. It was not intended to be thus. I'm sympathetic. But they're really in a pickle.
zalm
3 years ago
PS
I think Marian Grodzinski spoke closest to the truth. How drunk was he?
kris
3 years ago
Zalm
I would say Grodzinski had a beer or two. He wasn’t drunk. I think his choice of words expressed lack of concern for social norms that only homeless and millionaires are able to display so naturally.
kris
3 years ago
Zalm
Did you look at his picture in the gallery?
zalm
3 years ago
Yeh
He reminded me of my buddy on the DTES, only a lot cleaner, more coherent and ultimately sensible. That's why I asked.