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Wash and Share Clothing, a Perfect Fit

New garments made from even 'natural' cotton harm the planet. How to reuse in style. Third in a reader-funded series.

By Chris Cannon, 27 Apr 2010, TheTyee.ca

clothes-on-a-line.jpg

Re-used clothing? Just wash it.

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It would be easy to mistake a "Swap-O-Rama-Rama" for a craft fair or a flea market, or, at first glance, the tragic implosion of grandma's sewing circle. Hordes of anti-fashionistas swarm dozens of tables, picking through the wreckage of each others' wardrobes, salvaging one person's forgotten attire to be reborn as another's showy new find.

The rules are simple: bring all the clean, usable clothing you want to evacuate from your closet. Pay somewhere between six and 10 bucks to the organizers and hand over your cache for sorting. Then start your treasure hunt. Rama-goers can take home all the clothing they can carry, and at most events, stations with volunteer sewers, silk-screeners, iron-oners, button-attachers, and otherwise crafty folk will help you turn your special discoveries into one-of-a-kind originals.

"My hope is that society at large can reengage with the process of creativity, and walk away from consumerism," says Wendy Tremayne, who held the first SORR in 2002 in a friend's New York City apartment. Since turning it into a public event in 2005, SORR has expanded to dozens of North American cities. Vancouver's version launched in 2006, and is looking for a new organizer this year.

Escalating thrift-store ideology into a fun, community-based event, SORR is one of several institutions that have sprung up over the past few years with the mission to, in Tremayne's words, "create something where we could not consume any raw materials... learn how to stop shopping and be given a really good alternative, and a much more satisfying alternative. So here we're using the surplus that would make its way to landfills, and we're working with that as a creative tool."

In terms of visibility, automobile choices get the most attention when sizing up someone's environmental commitment. It's easy to nod in approval or shake your head in disgust when seeing a Prius and a Humvee sitting next to each other at a stoplight. But how much do we notice -- for that matter, how can we tell -- what attention those drivers paid to their clothing choices?

'Natural' but devastating

Although the clothing industry has managed to maintain a low profile in the carbon-footprint shell game, our relationship with our wearables bears as much scrutiny as our transportation and housing choices. The ubiquitous cotton, for instance, seems harmless enough -- it is a natural fiber, lacking the petroleum base of rayon and polyester, and not dependent on methane-producing ruminants required for wool and leather (methane creates 72 times the warming potential as an equal amount of carbon dioxide), according to Scientific American.

But our dependence on mass-produced clothing has turned this natural material into one of the world's most devastating crops. Cotton is a $300 billion-per-year industry that accounts for two thirds of the world's clothing. Its decidedly unnatural harvesting process has made it the most toxic crop on the planet, using 25 per cent of the world's insecticides, 12 per cent of the world's pesticides, and seven times the weight of those chemicals in fertilizer. The manufacture of a single cotton T-shirt involves one-third pound of chemicals and more than 2,800 liters of water just to grow the material, followed by a slew of toxins released into the air and water during bleaching, dying, and mercerization.

The environmental effects of the clothing industry have spurred a number of more eco-friendly options, with Paris runways suddenly vogue-ing with all manner of kinder choices, from organic and sustainable cottons to soy to bamboo to an increasingly softer line of hemp. But it's impossible to manufacture for the larger market without incurring the cost of some chemicals, and even fibers grown close to home are routinely shipped overseas for processing, adding the cost of transportation to the environmental bill.

"We could substitute materials with less harmful ones," says Lynda Grose, a sustainable-fashion designer at San Francisco's California College of the Arts. "But as long as the consumption of conventional fibers is increasing per capita worldwide (which it is), and as long as population is growing and increasing in wealth (both of which lead to greater consumption), the ecological gains we achieve through fabric substitution are lost."

The fact is, our efforts to reduce the environmental impact of our clothing choices has lagged far behind our housing and transportation concerns. The average North American throws out 27 kilograms of clothing per year, most of which ends up in landfills regardless of how much life they have left in them. And when we buy new clothes, at least 90 per cent of our purchases originate overseas.

DRESS REVERSAL: WHAT YOU CAN DO

Engage in "swap-shopping." Vintage shops and thrift stores not only reduce the environmental impact of your clothing choices, but provide an outlet for your own wearable throwaways that would otherwise end up in landfills.

Trade with like-minded strangers. Efforts like Shop-O-Rama-Rama and Freecycle offer multiple lives for those impulse buys you instantly regretted.

Host a clothing-exchange party with friends. A bag of sweaters and a pitcher of Daiquiris might score you that clever Threadless shirt your buddy likes to lord over you.

Get creative. A little craftiness can rescue dull clothes from the landfill, and a craft-themed exchange party could rescue your friends' outfits as well.

— C.C.

Winning the clothing battle

The solution -- buy used -- is obvious, but we are far more reluctant to purchase pre-owned clothing than we are pre-owned houses and cars, perhaps a clean-freak revulsion to donning attire that spent years brushing a stranger's skin. But it is in thrift stores and vintage shops that the battle for sustainable clothing choices is being won, and at shared-resources events like Swap-O-Rama-Rama and the dozens of Freecycle networks around British Columbia (think Craigslist, except everything is free) that bring a community focus to environmental sustainability.

Taken as a whole, the clothing industry is one of the most environmentally destructive forces on the planet. But when you buy used or trade with friends, not only can you score finds you would never come across in retail stores, but the sunk environmental cost of those purchases reduces your closet's footprint to zero.

As with most of our environmental attitude shifts, adaptation requires a mental adjustment that removes us from the momentum of our destructive choices. Escaping the clutches of plastic grocery store bags requires that first trip to the Safeway with our own cloth carriers.

The same is true with a move toward sustainable clothing options. The next time you go on a shopping spree, make it a point to visit stores that offer recycled wearables.

If every Canadian bought their next cotton shirt used instead of new, it would save five million kilograms of agricultural chemicals and 95 billion litres of water.

We can imagine a whole suit, or a whole closet, but it's the initial thrifty buy that we all need to make. Take that first step and see where it leads you.

Tomorrow: What happens when a bunch of people decide to share a house in one of Canada's toniest neighbourhoods?  [Tyee]

12  Comments:

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  • Takuan

    2 years ago

    an interesting pyschological point:

    I know any number of people who shudder at the thought of "second hand" clothing touching their skin - yet these same people will cheerfully put on hospital garb previously worn by someone with who-knows-what.
    Soap may be soap, but the stain lingers.

    Perhaps the point to attack here is the fear that poverty is contagious. How do you convince people that recycling clothing doesn't mean "catching teh poor"?

  • soleprobe

    2 years ago

    "people who shudder at the thought"

    I got some secondhand cotton underwear you could take off my hands. You could go down in history as the one courageous environmentalist who single-handedly initiated the move to save the planet from the hordes of wasteful underwear enviro-bombers.

  • Takuan

    2 years ago

    never been

    in hospital? Or were you able to afford private hospitals?

  • jwstewart

    2 years ago

    Yes, he seems to be taking

    Yes, he seems to be taking this sharing thing a little far. Trains, buses? Sure. Cars? Maybe.

    Bikes, clothes, etc? We're getting a little personal.

    I hope that when you get your turn on the bike, you simultenously get the clean underwear.

  • Takuan

    2 years ago

    careless trivialization of a worthy concept

    I think you might be shocked to find out what goes in the kitchens of the restaurants you enjoy. No? Yet you still eat there.

    Huge parts of the world live in second hand clothing, They have no choice but it doesn't kill them. Indeed, in many cases it is their poverty that enables your comfort. Would you despise them?

    In hindsight I phrased wrongly above: Poverty IS contagious. We make it that way. The real answer then is making an economic system that's doesn't build-in poor.

  • jwstewart

    2 years ago

    I'm not sure how restaraunts

    I'm not sure how restaraunts go on topic, do enlighten me:)

    Nevertheless the concept of sharing applied to clothing is different from second-hand clothing.

    Second-hand implies a transfer of ownership, sharing implies a lack of ownership, which in my (aging) mind hints that we wouldn't even have the shirts on our back, and hence we are all poverty stricken.

    And a steady-state no-growth no-profit economy presumes that we should stay that way. Who's in for that?

  • Takuan

    2 years ago

    OK

    try "swapping" instead of sharing.

  • dorothy

    2 years ago

    I'm with Ed Deak there -

    You can find quality in thrift shops, which you can't buy for any amount of money new. They just don't make it like they used to! I buy all my clothes in such places, including some underwear. Use your common sense - you can cook the stuff to death! It's all about applying intelligence to the problem and not have too many hang-ups. While you worry about the perfect fit or keeping your hosiery unsnagged, whole generations can grow up and pass you by. My mother used to say: as long as you're whole and clean, OK. There are more important things to worry about than what you wrap around yourself, before you go out and meet the day! Much, much more important things.

  • OilbertaRedTory

    2 years ago

    Steady State vs Perpetual Growth Economy

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sqwd_u6HkMo

    Who's in for profit without perpetual growth ?
    hhmmm, aging minds could start with the lessons of our grandparents; like Hubbert:
    http://www.hubbertpeak.com/hubbert/hubecon.htm

  • Fii

    2 years ago

    Clothing swap

    My friends and I did this last summer, with books and clothes. A few of us roughly the same size took all our clothes we didn't want/wear anymore for whatever reason and re-distributed. It works well if you tend to have similar styles and sizes. I got lots of great new outfits.

  • Takuan

    2 years ago

    good Hubbert item, ORT

    kind of leads to nuclear war though. The biological "solution" is too tempting, someone wil try it and as the plagues rage, nuclear revenge will be our last act.

  • ouhite1

    2 years ago

    come to the next Free Store!

    The Free Store was held at Little Mountain Studio on Main St and 26th last year, as well as two or three years before that. You can find lots of clothing, and other free stuff - the last time there was even a couple of computers (at least 1 mac), a mixer, a bike. (these free stuff was collected weeks before the store)

    Personally I found myself a nice H&M black skinny pants and a really nice snowboard jacket (paint splatters but I love that!) and a white belt.

    Everything not taken was given to the Salvation Army afterwards.

    (Also, before the free store there was another group of people that organized an event with the same idea, but they called themselves Vague.)

    ASIDE from that... Emily Carr Student's Union have held at least two events like that - clothing swaps. It happened on a smaller scale and I believe it was only open to students.

    So... there's definitely been goodness all around. We need to spread the word out about these events.

    Free store's email......: free store vancouver in one word, at gmail dot com

    Or find them on Facebook by searching "Free Store"

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