Life

A Tyee Series

100-Mile Diet's Winter Menu

For 'locavores,' year-round farmers' markets and easy recipes.

By Jeff Nield, 3 Nov 2006, TheTyee.ca

Kale

Flowering kale: frost sweetens.

When Alisa Smith and James MacKinnon kicked off a year of local eating on the first day of spring, 2005, they expected that the vernal equinox would also bring the year's first harvests to the grocery stores. Well, it wasn't that simple. "We were eating last winter's food for about six weeks before any new crops were available," says Smith. They managed to stay alive and on course for their 100-Mile Diet, but fresh produce was scarce and the farmers' markets didn't open until May.

"I was actually outraged when I heard that," recalls Smith with a chuckle.

This year, Vancouverites looking to buy their food close to home won't need to worry about losing weight or eating the musty beets and turnips that Smith and MacKinnon call "war vegetables." For the first time, the folks who organize the Trout Lake, West End and Nat Bailey farmers' markets have planned a monthly winter market in East Vancouver. The time of year when we settle in for the long stretch of dark and wet also turns out to be a season when our local farmers produce a surprising amount of food.

Chilly bounty

"We've been running a holiday market for ten years on the second weekend of December," says Tara McDonald, the executive director of Your Local Farmers' Market Society. "It was more of a gift show until 2005, when we brought some farmers back and we were absolutely jammed beyond belief." The long lineups made it clear that there was a year-round demand for local food, and after consulting with the growers and finding an indoor venue, the winter markets were born.

"A lot of our farmers -- especially fish and meat producers -- were coming into town once a month to meet their customers anyway, so this is a great way to facilitate those transactions and get people access to other local products," says McDonald.

Farmers are responding cautiously but optimistically. The winter markets will be held on the first Saturday of each month, with the first on November 4. Expect a selection as varied as at any time of the year--greens, apples, garlic, grapes, peppers, potatoes, root crops, nuts, pumpkins, fish and meat, cheese and every imaginable colour and shape of squash.

"We're basically gleaning from our fall crops," says Susan Davidson of Fraser Common Farm, which goes to market together with four other operations under the Langley Organic Growers banner. Her farm will feature standbys like winter salad mix (hardy leafy vegetables such as spinach, baby chard, kale, radicchio, escarole and dill, plus edible flowers), bunched collards and other greens, sunchokes and frozen raspberries, while the other farms will add their own surprises. Davidson's only concern is that the demand this year could exceed the supply. "We want to test the market, and if it's a success we'll plan more for next year."

Which is exactly what McDonald is hoping will happen. Along with providing markets for what is already in production, she says, successful cold-weather markets will encourage farmers to grow more intensively all year. Already, the Fraser Common Farm is considering plans for specific winter crops and two "hoop houses" -- simple greenhouses -- next year.

Self-preservation

100-MILE WINTER: RECIPES

The silly season is over -- bring on the chilly season. Throughout the cold months, The Tyee will feature regular reports and recipes for local winter eating, drawing on the know-how of Vancouver chefs and food activists. Recipes will be archived here and at 100milediet.org, where you can share your own local-food recipes as well. Below, we kick it all off with two from James MacKinnon, co-author of our 100-Mile Diet series and a self-declared "basic, what's-in-the-fridge cook."

Pumpkin Soup

Pumpkins are often incredibly cheap after Halloween. Try to find flavourful varieties such as sugar pumpkins.

1 tbsp butter
1 onion, diced
4-6 cloves garlic, minced
¼ tsp. hot pepper flakes
1 small pumpkin, skinned, cored, and chopped
2 carrots, sliced into rounds
3 medium potatoes, cubed
¾ cup white wine
5 cups water
1 tsp salt
1 tsp coriander seeds, crushed

In a large saucepan, melt butter over medium-low heat. Sauté next three ingredients until onion is translucent and beginning to brown. Add all other ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until the vegetables are very soft. Purée with a hand blender. Simmer to desired thickness and serve.

Braised Kale with Mushrooms

Kale is tastier in the winter; it sweetens after the first frost.

butter
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 lb kale greens
1 lb brown mushrooms, sliced
salt
red chilies, ground

Heat 1 tbsp butter in a cast-iron skillet. Sauté garlic until just beginning to brown. Add mushrooms and fry until releasing their juices. Set sautéed mixture aside in a bowl, leaving some liquid in the pan. Rinse but do not dry greens and chop into three-inch sections. Add to hot skillet and cover. When greens have wilted and begun to brown, reduce heat, add mushroom and garlic blend, and sauté one minute more.

If anyone knows how to prepare for a local-eating winter, it's Smith and MacKinnon, who estimate that 90 per cent of the food they eat at home is still grown or raised within 100 miles of their Kitsilano apartment. "We're right at the dawn of whatever winter farming might look like ten years from now," says MacKinnon, who adds that the new farmers' markets offer would-be locavores another chance to buy produce in bulk. "It's a good season to start moving toward a more seasonal diet. There's much more available then people would think and it changes more than people would think."

Preserving and storing food is the key to local eating in the Canadian climate, says MacKinnon. "Last winter wasn't too bad because we put food away," he explains. "We had time to plan for it. We did a lot of canning, we filled a little cube freezer with fish and prawns, even a little beef." Revolutionary stuff for formerly strict vegetarians who realized their well-travelled tofu and dried beans were typical of a global food system in which most products are shipped 2,500 to 4,000 kilometres from farm to plate.

"The longer you do it, the easier it is," adds Smith. "We're in way better shape for winter this year than we were for last year. We've figured out details like quantities. We bought 60 pounds of tomatoes last year, and you think, 'Wow, that's a lot of tomatoes!' but it didn't actually turn into that many when we canned them. So this year we have twice as many tomatoes."

This year the freezer is also full of goodies they've agreed not to touch until the autumn harvest is over. Things like frozen berries, asparagus, fava beans, summer peas -- hardly starvation rations. The 100-Mile Diet, the two say, was far more diverse than they'd expected, from the countless heritage varieties of familiar standbys like radishes and apples to delicacies like Pacific sardines, celeriac and seaweed.

Friendly frost

Some foods even taste better in winter, say Smith and MacKinnon. Kale, beets, carrots, Brussels sprouts and turnips all taste better after they've been touched by a frost. Shellfish taste fresher, and winter fish are richer in savoury oils. "It's looking at your food in a new way," says Smith. "Look at what's available at the farmers' market and say, 'OK, what recipes do I have that can use these ingredients that are available right now?'"

"This isn't a hard-line thing," notes MacKinnon. "It can be as simple as switching from drinking a glass of orange juice from Florida every day to drinking a glass of apple juice from the Fraser Valley, or berry juice. Why not just decide that all your potatoes this year are going to be from local sources?

"What we find is that when people start to do it, they just do it more and more because it's interesting, it reconnects you to the people and the landscape that produce your food.

"And it's really good eating."

You can find more information about the 100-Mile Diet at the official website.  [Tyee]

29  Comments:

Login or register to post comments

  • danneau

    5 years ago

    Comments on "100-Mile Diet's Winter Menu"

    In lovely Port Alberni, our Farmer's Market has run year-round for several years, every Saturday morning. The offerings are certainly thinner in the winter, but there's usually something green. The irony is that the market parallels what comes out of the home garden, so the bounty of the market is cancelled out mostly by what we grow ourselves. The market is also a social occasion, a great way to meet up and catch up on news.

  • Stump

    5 years ago

    Thanks to these bloody articles I get 'hundred-mile' guilt every time I buy bananas (but, but they're organic!).

    Thanks to the Trout Lake Farmer's Market for a whole summer of fresh, fantastic local food!

  • pure

    5 years ago

    I purchase local and off shore food in the Safeway or Save-on. The idea is eat good and stay healthy. If I could I would support local food 100% of the time but that is not possible because of the 4 seasons.

    Yes 100% of the time if I could!

  • ubiquitous

    5 years ago

    You CAN pure, it just takes a little imagination.

  • Stump

    5 years ago

    and a lot of Kale.

  • Working Man

    5 years ago

    Quote:
    Thanks to these bloody articles I get 'hundred-mile' guilt every time I buy bananas (but, but they're organic

    !).

    Oh my god, a leftie-enviro-criminal!! Thou shalt be castigated for not following the Party Line.

  • Stump

    5 years ago

    Sorry but I don't subscribe to left/right labels. I prefer to think for myself, hear both sides, and make my decisions based on my individual beliefs and experiences.

    Really, the left, right shouting at each is getting rather old don't you think? Are we here to shout at each other, or discuss problems and find solutions? The latter seems more fun frankly and certainly more productive.

  • pure

    5 years ago

    Yes stump, as long as you are not stumpped on something you will be just fine. Stop and think of what you are doing and your decision will be on target.

  • RickW

    5 years ago

    WM:

    Quote:
    Oh my god, a leftie-enviro-criminal!! Thou shalt be castigated for not following the Party Line.

    Naw! Just trying to consume a little less fuel bringing those bananas in.

  • pure

    5 years ago

    Who can afford to eat organic foods:
    1) Gordon Camppbell
    2) Steven Harper
    3) Jimmy P.
    4) Donald Trump
    5) Tiger Woods
    And other rich people.

    * All I can afford is food that is reduced from its regular price and our food cost per month continues at $700.00 plus soap, tissue and related products. That is for my wife and I. I do not know how families make it this day and age and they now want us to buy locally. Not a good idea.

  • pure

    5 years ago

    Spartan apples are close to .70 each.

    Let me shed some lite on this subject;
    Eat lots of rice with olive oil and cooked hamburger.

    Naw I am not prepared to write a book on this subject. Take care!

  • Working Man

    5 years ago

    pure, I don't know what your problem is. I feed a family of four healthy food for $500 a month.

    Try Superstore.

  • RickW

    5 years ago

    Quote:
    I don't know what your problem is. I feed a family of four healthy food for $500 a month.

    Try Superstore.

    Thank God the farmer is willing to absorb the loss..........and don't forget the wash off the pesticides, etc.

  • pure

    5 years ago

    It is easier to feed four then two. You are in a position to cook more at one time. I feel that my wife and I should be able to eat good food for about $350/per month however, this is not the case. I will take your advice and try the SuperStore. Thanks.

  • giantartificial...

    5 years ago

    My husband and I spend around $400 a month on groceries and we eat pretty well. We buy from farmer's markets when we can, and I don't find that costs us any more than if we were to buy similar items from supermarkets. The difference is that produce from farmer's markets often keeps longer and there's less waste, so maybe that factors into my costs. It also tastes better, usually.

    Superstore has pretty crappy produce, at least it did the last time I ever visited. Thrifty's is one of the better stores for produce. They have more local stuff than I've seen elsewhere and it's good quality. The difference in price on produce is pretty minimal as it's already cheap.

    Food in general is dirt cheap these days as a percentage of our total costs, compared to what it was 30 or 40 years ago. I would rather pay a bit more for food if it meant there would be more small farms around. I don't suppose most people would, though.

  • Fii

    5 years ago

    My favourite is Famous Foods on Kingsway, and all those little private markets on the Drive- you have to look around, but they beat Capers (yeah, sorry, I don't have the cash flow to shop regularly at an over-priced "cool" place like that). Can't remember the last time I shopped at IGA or the like- for me those places are for the rare "Oh, I've run out of milk" moments... Superstore is great for bulk (I agree with Pure that it's sometimes cheaper to cook for a group of people) and those packages of 4 chocolate bars for $2.50... evil...
    I find it's way to easy to "go for sushi" or dim sum in this city with a group of friends and drop about $50 a weekend on eating out. Ah well, it doubles as my entertainment, I guess.

  • pure

    5 years ago

    I agree with Giant and Fii that a family should be able to eat good for around $400/mo at home. Yes, food is fairly cheap this day and age compared to years ago. However other items such as houses and cars are very expensive compared to years ago.

  • Working Man

    5 years ago

    I never buy produce at Superstore. It is all shipped from Calgary and not fresh. I buy it at Kin's Market, always the best prices and the freshest.

    Food is cheap. Cars are cheap, too when compared to say 25 years ago. Cars are much better built, have more equipment and are safer. Housing is insane in the Lower Mainland, though.

  • rob

    5 years ago

    Cheap food that travels thousands of kilometers is picked unripe, when nutrient levels are lowest. It costs less but delivers inferior nutritional content. Imported processed foods are so high in Sugar - Fat & Salt , as well as contaminaation from Genetic Engineering (GE) that they are directly responsible for the rise in chronic diseases like obesity and diabetes. That costs us all billions a year in medical costs.

    Sold in big box stores, cheap food imports only costs us about 14% of our net disposable income compared to 20 -30 % in Europe ( where they know what happens when farmers cannot afford to stay on the land ).

    We spend much more then $400 per month on food and we are far from wealthy. Farmers deserve more for helping to keep us healthy with nutrient rich local food. If it is certified organic then it has been proven to be superior to conventional food with higher vitamin C levels and lower levels of cancer causing nitrates ( see the Dieticians of Canada web site and search for 2004 Organic Food article ).

    This is not an us or them issue. Healthy local food can come from the farmers market or a community garden or community supported agriculture or from schools or universities.

    Imported foods have a lower up front cost but then the future health costs, the environmental costs and the costs from losing that local production are immense.

    Every time you buy a local lettuce from a local farmer and pay more for it, you improve the quality of your familes food, help reduce greenhouse gases because transportation distances are less and improve the local econommy because the economic multiplier effect of local food is twice that of imports.

    Food is not just another expense item like your heating bill or your car payments, it is an investment in the health of your children. How much is that worth?

  • Jen

    5 years ago

    Most of one of my paychecks goes to rent; me and my husband still manage to eat freaking fantastic healthy food for $400 a month at the _most_.

    Every time I look at my grocery receipts I notice the items that "break the bank" are packaged or processed in some major way. Sure I indulge in a little Miracle whip and cream cheese, but I have managed to cut my grocery bills way down by eating mostly fresh and basic foods instead. I try to buy organic and local foods; the key to cheap eats is going seasonal. And you don't have to buy everything organic. Check out the consumer's pesticide list and you'll be on your way. I'm not a strict follower of the 100-mile diet (yet) but am doing better than everyone else I know.

    Stay away from the inside aisles of the grocery store and see how you do... I shop at a couple of little produce markets in my neighbourhood (Main st): Kea foods, Everfresh produce (they have lots of imported stuff but also cheap local stuff) and get the basics cheaply at Buy-Low. By focusing on the strengths of each of these little places I save way more than if I bought everything at Kea or everything at Buy-low or god forbid, IGA (there's a way to triple your bill super-easily!) I don't even drive to these places. It's amazing how much you can fit on bike handlebars!

  • giantartificial...

    5 years ago

    Jen is right - my grocery bill would be a lot higher, too, if I were buying more processed foods. Basic is definitely the way to go. Even thought it meant we had to actually learn to cook, it just tastes so much better, it's healthier, and we know what we're eating.

    I'm hoping we'll start seeing a lot more local organic produce in supermarkets, where the masses shop. Usually it's trucked in from California (and mass-produced??). At least that shows there's a market for it, though.

    I saw some stats the other day on employment in Canada. Apparently agriculture was one sector that had declined, although there were no details as to why. This is Canada, Land of Agriculture. We need to find a way to make regular small farms prosperous - and not just those in specialty markets selling old fashioned apples and sheep cheese.

  • pure

    5 years ago

    I think that some of these apples I buy at save-on-foods may be a year old as it states on the label product from usa. Not just apples but other fruits alike. It amazes me how profits are made when a person thinks of picking, packaging, storing, loading, unloading, storage again at this end, loading and unloading again, delivery to local stores and put on the shelves for consumers to purchase. No wonder people wind up with cancer and other health problems. I agree with Jen and Giant.

  • Fii

    5 years ago

    Drive to pick up groceries?? Hell, no. That's what the doggie backpack is for in the winter, when it's not being used for hiking... he's got to earn his keep, too...

  • pure

    5 years ago

    I think I buy to much red meat for example; beef tenderloin, t-bone steaks and extra lean ground beef. That is why my monthly food bill is $700.00. However there is lots of fruits and veggies around the house.

  • anarcho

    5 years ago

    I know that not everyone can do this but other than potatoes, onions and garlic, I haven't bought a vegetable since May. Got pears from my tree, apples and plums from the neighbor and endless amounts of blackberries from an abandoned lot down the street. Froze and canned some too, so I shouldn't need to go to the veggie dept of the Supermarket til about January. Next year it should be even better, as this was my first major garden and I just now found out about the Gleaners Club which goes and picks fruit and nuts from peoples trees who don't want the stuff. (I understand most people don't use the fruit and nuts growing in their yards)

  • pure

    5 years ago

    On this side of the world we waist food and the other side they have a real shortage of food.
    * It would be nice if we could find a happy medium and feed all people.

  • Working Man

    5 years ago

    pure, there is no shortage of food anywhere in the world. What there is amounts to a shortage of distribution or governments impeding that distribution for political reasons.

    And of course, there is often a shortage of money to buy it,

  • lynn

    5 years ago

    anarcho, speaking of the Gleaners club we have a similar idea near where I live.

    For people who are unable or don't want to pick their own fruit from their trees... or simply have too much of it... a group of pickers will come and pick it for you. One third of the fruit picked you are allowed to keep for yourself. One third the pickers get to keep. And one third goes to people in need like the food bank. A great idea I think.

  • Harold Steves

    5 years ago

    The 100 mile diet is great. Growing your own food is better.

    Before it became imperative to keep up with the Jonses with a bigger and bigger house or to live in apartments, people used to have more space for a garden. In the future there will have to be more city allottment gardens and community agriculture to make up for this loss.

    We have been experimenting with "urban agriculture" on our farm for several decades. In 1974 John Jeavon's wrote a book "How to Grow More Vegetables .. than you ever thought possible on less land than you can imagine" His group "Ecology Action" developed year round gardening techniques to provide enough basic vegetables for a family of four on 1000 sq. ft. of land.

    While Jeavon's experiments were for California and Mexico we have found that we have enough vegetable varieties adapted to a northern climate that we can do almost as well here.

    We also grow tomatoes year round in containers in our front window.

    Believing that "an apple (full of antioxidants) a day keeps the doctor away" we have experimented with dwarf apple trees to find five varieties that can be grown in anyones back yard to provide apples 10 1/2 months a year without refrigeration. The 1 1/2 months we don't have fresh apples, in June and early July, we have dried apple treats, canned apples, applesauce, and fresh strawberries and raspberries from the garden.

    Blackberries (also full of cancer fighting anti-oxidents)can be found grownig wild and are great fresh, frozen, canned or as blackberry wine.

    When the trucks hauling food for a thousand miles or more start to feel the efrfects of the high cost of fuel when we reach peak oil we will have to produce more of our food locally. Too much farmland has been lost and more and more city dwellers will have to grow their own food.

    • No best comments selected by an editor for this story yet. To see all comments, click the All Comments tab, above.
    • The discussion for this story is closed. No more comments can be added.