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Burgess Is Back
What he's learned about porn, planes and people.
There has been a lot of talk about Chinese web censorship lately. I'm here to tell you it's not all bad. While in a Shanghai Internet café, I attempted to read Vanessa Richmond's Tyee story about plastic surgery, a story illustrated with a photo of an artificially busty woman in some lingerie. Suddenly, the screen disappeared, replaced by a warning titled: "Porn Watch." Chinese web surfers are being protected from salacious Tyee content and I think that's great.
We could use a little of that around here. I'm back home now and shocked - shocked! -- to find out what's been happening in my absence. The day after my return, I eagerly turn to the Sun comics page and Rex Morgan, M.D. Rex is chatting with a grinning doctor who says, "I heard about your 'house call' last night! Good work!"
The final panel shows a blushing female receptionist. "Sorry, Dr. Morgan," she says. "I told a few people about last night."
So, now I can't leave the country for five weeks without Rex Morgan going all slutty on me. Perhaps I will remain in China where morals are still strong and the news is always good. The day I left, the headline in the China Daily read "Regulation of Internet in line with world norms; Chinese people can access the Internet freely."
You see? No problem.
I have certainly done my part to advance China's economic miracle. At Shanghai's Pudong Airport, I paid the equivalent of nine Canadian dollars for a double espresso. Thus, yet another helpful Chinese moral lesson -- stay away from drugs.
A long trip like this one is always difficult to process afterwards. There is too much information and experience crammed into too little time. Then home, where weeks can pass almost untroubled by incident, snoozing in front of the TV. Some balance would be nice. Perhaps a day in Sulawesi at a Torajan funeral, watching in horror as a water buffalo is slaughtered, followed by two days home in bed. A weekend at the Chatuchak Market in Bangkok, then Granville Island. A lovely meal of mee goreng in Singapore and the next day, the same dish at Kam's Place on Davie, just for comparison.
Post-voyage ablutions
Doesn't work that way, unfortunately. As a result, one returns from a long voyage with a slush pile of unprocessed imagery and sensation, some of which is excreted as waste. I drop a few nuggets here in summation:
Rush seating is a bad idea for airplanes. Waiting to board an Air Asia flight from Bangkok to Singapore, I managed to grab the front of the line. Behind me was a rather impatient Chinese man. He pushed. The flight attendants were standing around listlessly, clearly 10 minutes away from boarding, when the prodding began. "Go! Go!" said his hands to the small of my back. When pre-boarding of families with children began, he was beside himself -- pretty much where I was standing, in fact. He jabbed my spine and howled at the flight attendants, evidently livid that the kiddies were grabbing the window seats. But hey, I saved a few bucks on airfare.
When traveling, one must tread that fine line between misguided stereotyping and appreciation of genuine cultural differences. People may share the same dreams of contentment and happiness for their families, but no traveler can hang onto the illusion that folks are the same everywhere. If that were the case, the NHL would be a global phenomenon and we would have troops in Iraq.
So one is left to wonder -- why are Balinese people generally so sweet? Why are the people of Sulawesi so easygoing? A man I'd briefly chatted with on a bus to Toraja, proud father of five daughters, invited me to stay at his house. One day on the streets of Makassar, I was approached by a uniformed cop. "Hello!" she said. "Welcome! My name's Edna. What's yours?"
There are always exceptions -- assholes exist everywhere -- but distinct regional characteristics do exist. What shapes them?
Child-sized truths
One undeniable difference between Canada and Indonesia involves family. Canadians love their children as much as anyone. But in Bali and Sulawesi, society revolves around family relationships in a way that many Canadians would find difficult to bear. Virtually all Balinese names are based on birth order -- almost everyone is called Wayan, Made, Nyoman, or Kutut, indicating first, second, third, or fourth offspring. In Toraja, my guide Marcus mentioned that he will be identified at important gatherings not by his given name, but as Papa Esther -- father to his eldest daughter. Marcus asked why I had no wife and family. I chattered away with the usual North American clichés about not finding the right person, it's tough out there, etc. He nodded, but I could see he didn't really get it. Without family in Toraja, I would be adrift.
There is more curiosity about Canada than actual knowledge. Marcus asked me if we had elephants and grew rice. (I tried to impress him with descriptions of moose and grizzly. And wheat.) However, on Monday, February 13, Canada made the front page of the Jakarta Post. Election? Olympics? Nope -- Canadian race car driver Sean McIntosh had just won the Indonesian A1 Grand Prix.
So never mind the men's hockey thing. In Jakarta, we rule.
Steve Burgess, The Tyee's at-large culture critic, is living small again in Vancouver. ![]()




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asher
6 years ago
Comments on "Burgess Is Back"
There was a letter to the Editor in Monday magazine this week about the number of Falun Gong prisoners in Suzhou, Victoria's sister city. Up to 10,000 imprisoned there, if I recall correctly.
Suzhou is less than an hour away from Shanghai. See anything?
And I was chatting to a person in Suzhou just now when I tried to send her a link from Wikipedia.com (in Chinese) showing that Victoria and Suzhou are sister cities. And guess what. She couldn't access the link because Wikipedia.com is banned in China! And it was simply an article called "Suzhou."
Colin
6 years ago
We stopped off in Pudong airport on the way to and from Malaysia this October. We had our 10 month old daughter with us, we setup our playpen in the airport so we could let her play. We promptly had about 40 Chinese grandparents hovering over her, they sure love children!
The coffee shop on the second floor, something star served a great cappuccino. The air there is incredibly bad, glad I don’t have to breath it everyday. On the way out to Malaysia we overnighted in Pudong and the airline put us up in the “Eastland Luxury hotel†I do not recommend this hotel for anyone travelling with kids, it may have been nice 15 years ago, but very little has been done to keep it up. It does allow travellers a tiny glimpse of life in China though, the amount of garbage is awesome, yet everyone was very friendly to us.
Reading the local English paper there, the government admitted to 6,000 deaths in the Coal mining industry in 2005, you can imagine how many they didn’t admit to.
Working Man
6 years ago
Chinese and Koreans are indeed extremely fond of children and we found out a few years ago when we brought ours along to Korea when I had a contract there. I couldn't believe the attention they got.
asher
6 years ago
That's because although they may have seen a lot of adult Westerners, babies are rare to see. It is a love of curiosity of babies.
One of my friends was especially curios about baby's hair.
asher
6 years ago
not enough u's in that post, sorry. curious.
Steve Burgess
6 years ago
Interesting point about the babies Asher, think you may have something there.
Far be it from me to suggest that any culture loves children more than any other. But traveling through Asian destinations you can't escape the fact that, in many Asian places, family relationships tend to be much more central to society. In Bali children are almost always named for the order of their birth. In Sulawesi parents are introduced not with their given names but with the names of their children.
Bailey
6 years ago
I've noticed that too, about how much people love babies. How come we don't carry that feeling over to adults?
Maybe in Bali Mr. Burgess found somebody who still does. Such sweet kindness used to be a more charactistic feature of Canadians too, I think. No more.
Why do you think we stopped?
Colin
6 years ago
Steve
I asked some Chinese friends about traditional naming practices for children, it was quite mind boggling, I do remember that they used to send back to the ancestral village either for a name or to have it recorded. It’s worth asking about.
Asian also have a different concept of personal space then we do, and most think nothing about picking up your kid or playing with them. It takes a bit of getting used to, but our 11 month old daughter loved the attention and was a bit miffed when she got home to the “proper western behaviourâ€
asher
6 years ago
Actaully wehn I was in Taiwan in the late 1990s they TV ran adds urging families not to abandon their elderly parents to the streets.
The elderly in Asian countries that do not have adequate seniors home of course depend on their children to take care of them.
asher
6 years ago
I've gotten used to editing posted comments on other sites. Sorry for all the typos.